110 Auto conversion

Haha an LT230 as hand luggage! love it! Damn sure that the gears only can come out and interchange between 230's these boxes have the staked nut to set preload on the intermediate gears, I think, be much easier to send the gearset over not the whole box, I wouldn't have thought there would be much in it between 1.192/1.22? I use this Ashcroft Transmissions - Ratio Calculator. The disco zf and 230 should be around 2-2100 rpm at 100kph in OD, which I can see as being overgeared for a 110, and that is with just 32" tyres, It screams its nuts with the 95 and 1.33 gears at 100 like 33-3400 rpm, probably why it does 20L/100!

Rang a guy called Eli Friedlander who has imported and rebuilt thousands of Land Rovers as Forward Specialties, Kind of put me off the ZF, Said I should just rebuild the 95 and use a higher range set 1.174, or even 0.996, He has quite a few ex army LT95's plenty of parts, mostly new or good S/h. I think the 95 is a good v8 box really, just the backlash that brasses me off the most, I feather the clutch automatically when I drive, but others it's bang,bang,bang!

I used a RRC lt230 into my series and the transfer lever came out in front of the seat box. I made a new tunnel and mounted the autos gear lever beside it.

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Originally Posted by Landiheaven

Rang a guy called Eli Friedlander who has imported and rebuilt thousands of Land Rovers as Forward Specialties, Kind of put me off the ZF, Said I should just rebuild the 95 and use a higher range set 1.174, or even 0.996, He has quite a few ex army LT95's plenty of parts, mostly new or good S/h. I think the 95 is a good v8 box really, just the backlash that brasses me off the most, I feather the clutch automatically when I drive, but others it's bang,bang,bang!

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G'day landiheaven, Sorry to go off topic a bit but couldn't help but comment. With the LT95 you will find the backlash will be either in the intermediate shaft or centre diff (gears or cross shafts worn) or in the driveline (uj's,slip joints,front/rear diff centres or axle drive flanges). The intermediate shaft and centre diff are easy enough to fix even without removing the box and similarly with the rest of the driveline. If the slop is in the driveline fitting another gearbox will not fix it.

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Originally Posted by Bearman

G'day landiheaven, Sorry to go off topic a bit but couldn't help but comment. With the LT95 you will find the backlash will be either in the intermediate shaft or centre diff (gears or cross shafts worn) or in the driveline (uj's,slip joints,front/rear diff centres or axle drive flanges). The intermediate shaft and centre diff are easy enough to fix even without removing the box and similarly with the rest of the driveline. If the slop is in the driveline fitting another gearbox will not fix it.

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Thanks Bearman, I was wanting dialogue on the LT95 thing, I just wonder if I should be butchering an otherwise very tidy and straight '85 110 to run with the auto, I actually don't mind the 95 at all, for most of what I do, it's perfect, just more comfortable road speeds would be nice. I removed the PTO cover to look at slop and I think you're on the money with the intermediate shaft. The slop is not noticably better with the CDL engaged. Backlash in diffs and axle splines is minimal. One thing that I noticed, when I got the 110, backing up in reverse, it would bang like the CDL was engaging, well I tested this by removing one rear axle from the salisbury(had to snitch up wheel Bearing) had CDL open then engaged reverse at an idle. Freewheeled for a few seconds then BANG, front axle engaged and lurched backward. What is going on with the CDL? It appears permanantly locked now:o

In my opinion only- the auto will make it a much nicer/smoother car to drive and live with...
Richard

thanks red rover, I tend to agree, if I can get a 1.4 ratio cog for the 230!

Recall that the auto discos 1 and II had lower ratio diffs (higher geared) than the manuals.

Cheers

RF

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Originally Posted by Rick Fischer

Recall that the auto discos 1 and II had lower ratio diffs (higher geared) than the manuals.

Cheers

RF

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Aren't they all 3.54 ratio? cheers

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Originally Posted by Landiheaven

Thanks Bearman, I was wanting dialogue on the LT95 thing, I just wonder if I should be butchering an otherwise very tidy and straight '85 110 to run with the auto, I actually don't mind the 95 at all, for most of what I do, it's perfect, just more comfortable road speeds would be nice. I removed the PTO cover to look at slop and I think you're on the money with the intermediate shaft. The slop is not noticably better with the CDL engaged. Backlash in diffs and axle splines is minimal. One thing that I noticed, when I got the 110, backing up in reverse, it would bang like the CDL was engaging, well I tested this by removing one rear axle from the salisbury(had to snitch up wheel Bearing) had CDL open then engaged reverse at an idle. Freewheeled for a few seconds then BANG, front axle engaged and lurched backward. What is going on with the CDL? It appears permanantly locked now:o

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Sounds like your vacuum cdl actuator or switch is u/s and the cdl is now locked. You can check it by getting underneath and pulling both air lines off the actuator. Get a length of hose the same size and with it attached to the rear nipple fitting on the vacuum cylinder suck on it. You can feel when it disengages and your tongue should stick to the end of the hose. If it doesn't and you can still keep sucking and the cdl is still locked there is a good chance your vacuum actuator is u/s. If it works ok check the switch is ok by starting the engine (in neutral and handbrake on) get back underneath and check if there is vacuum at one of the hoses you have disconnected. Flip the switch and the vacuum should be at the other hose. If there is no vacuum there it's either a u/s switch or no vacuum is going to the switch - in this case follow the hose and check all connections until you find the problem.