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For flywheel, plate and pressure plate:
Handbrake on hard, select highest gear, throw in around only 1000 revs and slowly release clutch pedal. Engine should quickly stall! If it doesn't, then any one of the three will be suspect. If engine stalls then all is well with the three.
Alternatively, while accelerating go from 2nd to top and plant um foot, revs must not surge.
Cheers
RF
300Tdi's are notorious for killing clutch forks, generally the pivot punches through the fork before anything else fails.
My fork pooped itself at 222,000km and when i dropped everything the plate looked fine but all the springs were loose, the throwout bearing was ok but the slipper pivots were half worn away and the slippers themselves were in the bottom of the bellhousing, and the pressure plate fingers were half worm out and the finger heights were all over the place.
In a nutshell everything needed replacing anyway even though the clutch was still biting well.
This car had a hard life for its first 75,000km as it was fighting bushfires in the NT. A counterpose is our Patrol which has 410,000km on it and the clutch is original yet i know of other TD42T engined Patrols that needed clutch changes every 150-180,000km, so as the fellas above has said, it can vary.
And just to balance the fork-ology of R380 fame
I think I worked out once I had cracked the 500,000 on two different landies both 300tdi and R380.
Have done three clutches, always when the engine was out.
Flywheel, clutch and pressure plate have had minimal wear.
Fingers worn and slipper pads pretty shot but no fork popping good ness for me?
S
A mate of mine lost his clutch fork 50 east of Mt Augustus out in the back of beyond. If you think outback WA is flat try driving it without a clutch; up and down hills, through creek crossings. Got to Parabadoo. It so happens that his daughter was flying to join us so was able to travel with the new parts. Then a miracle, a bus booked in from the mines didn't arrive so the mechanic actually had a window to get it in. Back on the road three days later.
Apart from the danger it can easily stuff your holiday. Get it done. Go for heavy duty when you do.
Yes... make sure you install a reinforced fork or make one.Quote:
Originally Posted by weeds
The clutch fork is generally not a Td5 issue, they have the same solid forged fork as the V8, The clutch fork punch through only affects Tdi
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/03/535.jpg
you could use one in a Tdi to solve the problem,
As for Pumas, they don't have a clutch fork at all, but use Tilton style hydraulic release, which should be a huge improvement.
Going bush the OP has a 300tdi which will have an R380 with the fork that possibly can punch.
The only trouble with putting in a beefed up fork,
is the slipper pads, fingers, thrust bearing are all going to fail at the same time / about the same time as the fork?
That fork above looks like porn but Im not sure if I would stump the cash if it was a mega-bucks more than a pressed tin one?
Steve
Same except 150K and about 290KQuote:
Originally Posted by weeds
410K now and all good
regards
Andrew
recently changed the clutch in 300 tdi . reason for opening it up was the clutch pivot had punched through.
Found.
- a number of springs in the plate cracked or broken. Only 3 left looking serviceable.
- bearing a bit rumbly.
- pressure plate slight wear on fingers.
Certainly nicer to drive after the change as it took the clunk out of the engagement.
:cool:
Just going through this at the moment. TD5 defender 180k on it and complete unknown as I have only done about 2k of the 180k and going up to Cape York in June.
One of the bearings is noisy from time to time in there somewhere so just decided to do the clutch and know it will be one less thing to think about. I'll let you know how worn it all looks in there in the next day or so