Master
You need a long handled 3/8th ratchet to operate the aux belt auto tensioner. Not done one without taking off the fan first though (big fan spanner and a pulley holding tool) would probably be able to get the old belt off and new belt on without removing but the belts are pretty good and not known to snap.Originally Posted by Chops
Bobby, one thing which probably sounds really stupid, but something as simple as knowing how to change a fanbelt correctly/tensioning/etc. Maybe have a practice, and if your not carrying computer with you, carry a hard back manual for reference.
Another thing you might like to consider is a multimeter so you can check electricals' if required. I wanted one of these the other day to double check the duel battery charge. Handy to have, but the knowledge of how to use one is even handier. I was lucky as Gav (Travel buddy) both had one, and knew how to use it,,Thanks Gav.
Having just come back from a small tour ourselves, another issue we had was the exhaust had moved towards the drivers side, thus rubbing on the tail shaft, and "banging" against the chassis down the back of the car. My fix was to grab my roll of wire out of the back and tie it back over towards the passengers side.
It was an annoying problem, with an easy fix, purely because I always carry some fencing wire.
Having just placed two cans (jerry) of fuel in the car, next on my list of things to learn is the fuel filter and how it works and then priming etc. As Lou has suggested, its a small fee for what could be a major issue if your out in the middle of no-where.
I have Maintenance Fitters training and experience behind me, but when it comes to my own vehicle, for some reason I lack confidence.
But the one thing is to try and have the right tools for the job,,, and sometimes, that tool is just the instructions/manual for whatever you have to do.
For the priming....you can suck it out with a tube in your mouth if you have no other choice. Just need to suck the fuel out of the lines and till it fills up the filter and comes up to the engine bay. Not pleasant but very doable if out in the bush with no other choice.
Master
I'd suggest a very valuable endeavour before your intended trip would be to book your vehicle into a reputable (Land Rover savvy) 4WD mechanic for a pre-trip inspection service. They will be able to suggest things to address before you set off (hopefully preventing a problem out in whoop-whoop) and may be willing to show you around the vehicle for some common things to keep an eye on during your trip.
Best of luck with the journey,
Cheers,
Nige
Master
I saw this video on YouTube and it suggests that air bleeding and priming is not necessary if you fill the new filter prior to securing it in place.
If I were to do this, could I reasonably expect the engine to start?
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNFfdnfycYg]NEW Land Rover Defender 90 2.4 TDCI Puma Oil and Filter Service - YouTube[/ame]
ChatterBox
We do a lot of remote traveling.
The 4 main things we find which cause problems are: Tyres, wheel bearings tail shaft unis air filter elements and fuel filters.
Tyres.
Carry a second spare if possible or know how to repair a flat. 90% of the time you can get away with plugs which don't require taking the wheel off the rim, we usually spot a deflating tyre and fix it before it goes down. If you have to remove the tyre for any reason such as a faulty valve stem, you will need specialist equipment, due to the spiral safety catch on the Boost Alloys.
Wheel bearings are usually an easy fix at the side of the road, as long as you pick up the problem early. If you drive with a crook bearing, you can weld the inner of the race onto the hub making the job quite difficult. We carry a set of bearings, spacers locking tab and hub nuts - not very expensive.
Tail shaft unis. If these fail, they can be replaced on the side of the road, or just remove the tail shaft, lock the center diff and get it fixed at the next repairer. Again, spot the problem early - usually a vibration. To check, chock the wheels, take the car out of gear and hand brake off and move the tail shaft - the unis should be tight. These require greasing regularly, especially after prolonged rain of fording. Greasing of the Puma unis is quite difficult and get this done at a workshop on a hoist or become familiar with other methods.
Air cleaner check and tap out every few days in dusty areas. Removing and replacing the Puma ait filter is not as straight forward as it should be
Fuel filter - be aware of how to drain the water trap, collect this in a jar and if there is a lot of water, change the filter. This again is not straight forward. I find it easiest to bleed the fuel system by removing the supply line in the engine bay and pressurising the tank through the breather and collecting the diesel in a jar.
I will think of more
Erich
Wizard
Times like these that you miss the relative simplicity of the 300Tdi...
The Africa spec ones had a primary sediment trap in the same position a Puma's filter sits (most probably the same old bracket design). A two piece aluminium affair that you just stripped apart, scraped the dirt, mud and paint flakes out with a desert spoon kept specifically for the job (dodgy diesel in remote African stations), reassemble the works, swing the starter for 10 seconds and the 300Tdi runs as before!
I would be taking quite a number of filters if I ever get the chance to travel trough Zambia and Tanzania again and its done in a Puma...
Cheers,
Lou
Master
That's the only way I've ever changed my fuel filters on the current Puma, previous Td5 & other diesels. I have seen on the forum somewhere, where is was mentioned that "it doesn't work for all Pumas". I don't know why...it works for me, and is a lot quicker than bleeding. We did it the same way when I serviced Cat mining equipment, too.
Swaggie
SubscriberI have changed the fuel filter on my PUMA successfully without sucking any fuel through or using a pump thing. Just fill the filter with diesel right to the brim when replacing it. Starts no worries. Didn't skip a beat.
Having said that - having the 'sucker' tool on board would give some degree of confidence if you're out in the bundu and you have to change a filter....
YarnMaster
Pretty **** poor that you need to buy a tool to prime the thing after a filter change real handy good work land rover
Wizard
I think that one can be laid squarely on Ford...
The development guys at Land Rover were given a very (VERY!) tight budget to develop all aspects of the Puma in time for the 60th Anniversary.
They managed to modify a number of critical aspects of the Duratorq engine like the flywheel, but as the fuel system worked well enough in Ford's UK world it wasn't considered a priority to spend money on.
Thinking like that is why Ford couldn't make a success of owning the marque...
Cheers,
Lou
No truer words! If you cannot do a proper pretrip inspection yourself get some1 who does. Pretrip preps not only entail making sure the fridge keeps the beer cold but ensuring the machine woll carry your butt home with a minium of probs. What is the point of using a vechile that you need a trailer load of spares with? I spent 6 months preping a 2A SWB for a trip in '96. Bearings. hoses,Auxilarys and it went cape york , across the Gulf to the Sturt Hwy and home via Mt Isa 6000 miles later and I had to replace a tyre!. Prep is everything!
Cheers Scott
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