Thread: Top Ten Puma self-servicing and on-road repairs to know.

Lots of threads on changing a fuel filter... You cannot just change the fuel filter on Pumas and one batch of dirty fuel (even paint flakes from Jerries) and you won't be going anywhere.

You need to suck/ pump the fuel through with a specific "device" which you can buy for around $60 in Australia or around $25 plus p&p off e-bay.

DRAPER EXPERT 43986 DIESEL PRIMING PUMP FOR FUEL LINES FILTERS & PUMPS | eBay

Cheers,

Lou

Hey Lou, that looks the same as a fuel primer for an outboard motor. Someone correct me if you think I'm wrong.
So if you got one of those, from a boat chandler/shop, then go to the wreckers and get hold of the clip-on connection, or you could just use a piece of fuel line, you'd have yourself one for a cheap price.

Hi Chops,

Yep, just a normal "bulb" hand primer. If you can find the fittings its cheap and easy and should cost less than a tenner.

The problem remains that without hand priming the TDCi will not start after a filter change. I had a mate in the UK buy a couple and post me one. I then "persuaded" a Ford trained mechanic (beer economy) to show me how to operate the thing!

I've read about using a syringe to "suck" the air out as well as using your compressor to "blow" it through from the tank. All to much effort for the sake of buying a $25 tool off e-bay.

Cheers,

Lou

Bobby, one thing which probably sounds really stupid, but something as simple as knowing how to change a fanbelt correctly/tensioning/etc. Maybe have a practice, and if your not carrying computer with you, carry a hard back manual for reference.
Another thing you might like to consider is a multimeter so you can check electricals' if required. I wanted one of these the other day to double check the duel battery charge. Handy to have, but the knowledge of how to use one is even handier. I was lucky as Gav (Travel buddy) both had one, and knew how to use it,, Thanks Gav.
Having just come back from a small tour ourselves, another issue we had was the exhaust had moved towards the drivers side, thus rubbing on the tail shaft, and "banging" against the chassis down the back of the car. My fix was to grab my roll of wire out of the back and tie it back over towards the passengers side.
It was an annoying problem, with an easy fix, purely because I always carry some fencing wire.

Having just placed two cans (jerry) of fuel in the car, next on my list of things to learn is the fuel filter and how it works and then priming etc. As Lou has suggested, its a small fee for what could be a major issue if your out in the middle of no-where.

I have Maintenance Fitters training and experience behind me, but when it comes to my own vehicle, for some reason I lack confidence.
But the one thing is to try and have the right tools for the job,,, and sometimes, that tool is just the instructions/manual for whatever you have to do.

I've done a few solo trips in my puma, rather than think of the the things that could break, think about what will stop you. Buggered brake pads won't stop you, they may make it inconvenient but you will get to a town. Don't carry so many just incase spares that will weight you down and create an overloading issue. I would agree with the others, fan belt and how to fit it, fuel filters and how to re prime.as there are so many hoses I just carry the 2main water hoses and a few rolls of emergency silicone tape for water leaks. I carry 2part epoxy/liquid metal for repairs to punctured diffs/fuel tanks,fencing wire, a multi meter, and if you need it, grab a workshop manual. And remember with the pumas, if you get into trouble out bush, you can normally find a ford dealership that may get you out of trouble with parts as a lot of sensors and other parts are common.
Load as light as you can and enjoy yourself!

I discovered because a Tdci has like a "supa nut" holding on the wheel hub, it's a good idea to loosen them and re-tighten before any trip.
I recently inspected my wheel bearings, and the 1 nut that now replaced the old two is cranked up to some stupid torque, without the correct tools you aren't fixing it on the side of the road easily. And if you get it off with a cold chisel, you aren't using the nut gain anyway.

So I bought a $5 Britpart hub nut tool. Not the fancy one for the torque tool. Drilled out the existing holes in it to suite my tyre lever. Took the tube handle off the highlift jack and slotted it over the tyre lever, this gave me heaps of leverage. Get someone to force and hold the hub nut tool squarely onto the nut. The other start heave hoeing. The only new tool required is the hub tool, and so far the only tool without a second use.

So Jason, is this nut a different size now? Or will the old version still fit?

Same size. The Tdci also have a inner spacer between the bearings. I assume to stop them crushing when the nut is cranked.
I was pondering go back to the old two nuts and removing the spacer. But concluded LR have done it for a reason. Just not an obvious one for me.