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Hi Rick,Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
If they're an Exmoor Trim agent they might be able to get it, but there is a number of matting options for the Puma.
The Hardura system (several loose acoustic mat sections which looks similar the OEM), TD4 Acoustic rubber mats (thicker versions of the OEM mats) and the 2 piece fully moulded system.
I chose the fully moulded system the MOD's has fitted as a replacement kit on the Wolf and Snatch Land Rovers.
Cheers,
Lou
Lou
All the best for the weekend fit out!
Really keen to hear and see how difficult it ends up being, especially the tunnel area.
What's the estimate- 4 hours? Including removal of cubby box , seat rails, hand brake or quicker seeing as though it will drop straight in plus the Stanley knife cuts?
Is the colour similar/identical to Puma matting colour?
Think you will be happy with the finished product. Jealous.
Hi JIm,
Thanks for that!
I'm actually glad I didn't have the time to jump right in because its given me nearly 2 weeks to look, measure, compare etc to decide on the method. The instructions are just two paragraphs and generic for all Defenders from the early 80's to 2013!
The only section of the exiting matting that you reuse is the area around the gearshift gaiters. Pretty simple vertical cut down on the start of the facia down to the bottom of the tunnel and then across on the floor/ tunnel joint to the seat box. You'll see from the pictures that the bulkhead/ tunnel section only has a rectangular "frame". The mat splits to fit around the bottom of the facia and aircon pipes.
I reckon the longest part will be the hand brake (actually scares me a bit!:D) as you have options there but the best one would be to undo the hand break and refit it on bespoke recesses. The seat frames will take a bit of time as I've got Mulgo rails that will take a bit longer to undo and refit. I have stainless steel button head bolts which I might use in stead of the plastic clips if needed.
The colour is a very dark charcoal, so not completely black like the OEM but close enough that the tunnel section around the gaiters won't stand out.
I've taken Db readings in the current arrangement and I'll take some again after the fit. Regardless of the accuracy of the first and second set it might give a differential reading for those interested.
Cheers,
Lou
Looking forward to the debrief ( and images!) mate.
What model defender are you fitting ?
Hi Jim,
2010 Puma 90. Prior to Ford's debacle with the Puma's OEM matting (cheap and nasty) the Land Rover matting was good.
Td5's would not have the same reason for replacing the matting as Puma owners. I remember being unable to cut a hole in my 300Tdi's matting for a dead man switch!
Cheers,
Lou
Just a small thing but it does really help when doing jobs like this..If you can sling the the whole lot out in the sun for a hour or so before you try to fit it.. softens it up a lot ..much easier to work with..We use to throw all flooring and vinyl work in a hot box before fitting ..have fun!!
Lou
How'd you go mate?
Pretty keen to hear about it!
Jim
Hi Guys,
I can start off by saying that I'm no upholsterer or a fitter of any nature and that was very apparent during my efforts this weekend! :D
As per my last post, I took the cubby box out on Friday evening and I only finished the install at 12:00 on Sunday! After a lot of blood (literally :eek:), sweet and tears (more barely contained spanner throwing :D) I've managed to get to a finish I'm happy with.
The first step was to strip everything out. Owning a big dog and living next to the beach, the car could do with a very thorough clean!
The first section to go in according to the 5 sentences of instruction was the floor, tunnel and bulk head section. After "trimming as required" the floor section eventually settled in and if anyone want to go for this system, THE HANDBRAKE MUST BE REMOVED! :D.
I must admit I'm quite impressed by the fit, but even following Dawsey's advice the tight fit was part of the difficulty!
Next post the fit continues...
Cheers,
Lou
Following on the floor, tunnel and bulk head section was the seat box section...
Lots and lots of holes that need drilling as accurate as possible not to make a mess of the whole job! In and out about 15 times I eventually had the access hatch flaps cut and the holes drilled.
First in was the Mulgo seat extension rails (previously fitted) to serve both purposes of fixing the seat box section and lining up the last couple of holes (cubby box).
Next job was putting the hand brake back. With the thickness of the matting system it did not want to go back...! Eventually, after a couple tantrums, a bit of trimming and searching threads on Defender hand brakes here on AULRO I managed to get it fitted back.
One final post to follow with the finished product.
Cheers,
Lou
Last post in the series with the final product.
Everything replaced and adjusted.... I still need to install a few "Christmas tree" plug pins on the sides of the seat box and possibly on the sides of the seat box cover hasps as that's the only place I've got a small bit of "gaping".
I've noticed a significant drop in tunnel heat and with the hand brake mechanism no sitting "on top" of the matting there is very little heat transfer to the actual hand brake lever.
I have done some crude Db checks with the iPhone and at this stage it does look like I've got about a 3 Db drop in peak cabin noise (iPhone on SWMBO's right thigh/knee) on both occasions for consistency).
As I said before, I'm happy with the result and with a minor bit of fastening to do once the lot has "settled" in and I'm pretty sure this will last the life of the vehicle.
Cheers,
Lou