He already said he checked the axles and flanges.
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He already said he checked the axles and flanges.
I'm thinking he may have missed the splines part. Very unusual for anything in the guts of a Sals to let go.
I agree - if the OP has not removed the drive flanges from the axles and checked the splines, that would be the first step, or, as suggested, remove the dudt cap and check with it driving, but I assume the half axles are already out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearman
Next step would be to drain the diff and see if any interesting bits come out with the oil, and after this remove the rear cover to see what is the situation.
If it is the diff, rather than rebuild the diff, I would be inclined to look for a second hand complete assembly - perhaps the time to look at rear discs?
John
This isnt really any help to your problem. But when you go to order parts (and maybe even a detroit locker :D) give Bill a contact at GBR. I'll be ordering my diff parts through him shortly and has given me a wealth of knowledge. Plus parts are a good price and all bearings are Timken.
If you have killed a Salisbury can you post up some pics?
Never seen it happen before that's all.
It could still be the axle shafts.... My original set finally stripped the splines on the outer side, but when you pull the shaft out complete the circlip retains them in place... If you are not familiar with what you are looking at you could be led to believe that that are ok.. You can't turn mine by hand but the power of an engine can!! As said before tho, pull the rear cover and have a 'look/see'! Have a set of nearly new shafts on the shelf if interested as have just gone down the HiTough route.. Have a Salisbury center too, but thinking I should keep that in case the Detroit goes ping!! If you decide to go all out with Detroit and shafts, Lucky8 in the US will give you the best price by far for the Detroit, and Les Richmond Auto in Melbourne seemed to be the best for the HiTough axles.
My net must be slow!!! By the time I've typed and posted, about 5 others have sais what I said so.... "Yup, what they said"!! :D
True. He may not have pulled them to check the inner. I screwed an inner Salisbury spline off once.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bearman
Once I had the crown wheel bolts come loose and spat a couple out through the cover:(
Thanks to everyone for all the replies and advice, really appreciated. I had pulled the shafts and drive flanges but thought before I pulled the diff cover off etc I'd follow Bearman's advice. I stuck the axles back in, unlocked the centre diff and lo & behold, the axles were definitely being driven by the rear diff.
Turns out Sitec guessed my mistake exactly; although the drive flanges had enough engagement to turn the axles by hand, closer inspection revealed that one in particular has splines worn almost smooth at a couple of points. Interesting in that the flanges are relatively new (the PO replaced them shortly before I bought the ute). I suspect some inadequate grease was used when they were installed because there is dry, black gunk in the flanges which has both failed to lubricate the splines itself and also prevented the oil migrating down the shaft from reaching the splines, probably contributing to an early death.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sitec
I did drain and sieve the diff oil and found no metallic lumps. Splines on the diff end of the half shafts look fine too (if my judgment can be believed any more :angel:). The drive flange ends are definitely showing wear though. I've also noticed driving it around as a front wheel drive only has reduced considerably the drivetrain blacklash, so I guess I've discovered the source of that particular problem.
I'll put new shafts and drive flanges in and return to plotting how to justify a rear locker :D. And the legendary strength of the Salisbury diff remains unsullied...
Is it worth putting new axles (shafts)in now?
IF your new locker has fine splines you will have to change axles then.
Jim
Jim, truthfully I can't justify spending money on a locker in the foreseeable future; I really only entertained the thought if I was going to have to pay to have the diff rebuilt anyway. If I eventually do put in a locker, I'd probably go for a detroit which I think are compatible with the standard 24 spline shafts?
A bit off topic but I've always been confused about why the need to upgrade shafts / CVs when fitting a locker (presuming it's not about spline matching). I would have thought that a locker would give them an easier time since it presumably reduces the wheelspin / sudden traction shocks as the wheels on a single axle are locked together and permanently driven. It also effectively limits the maximum amount of power going through a single wheel to 25% (as opposed to 50% with an open cross-axle diff). Or am I completely confused here :confused::D