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You can replace all those screws by stainless steel versions. Stig Fasteners and Nakatanenga here in Europe offer specific sets for all versions of Defenders. Quite common to do here in Europe, I also did it on my SVX virtually from new right after I saw the first door hinge screw start to show some brown color.... Now more than 4 years on, no worries about rusty bolts:)
The rust is definitely a disappointment for a new vehicle,the actual paint on the chassis is also very poor as well.
My son eventually got the dealer here to send his to a body shop and they had it sprayed with Tectyl,a valvoline product.We have since had to touch it up with tectyl where it has worn or been scraped off.if you brush it on you can get a thick coating that lasts ages.
And as others have said,replace all the self tapers inside under the mats,and everywhere else with stainless one's.
Won't stainless accelerate the rust in the mild steel components with which it is in contact?? That's my understanding of the situation.Quote:
Originally Posted by scarry
:)
Just a note for those with < 6year old defenders... Take a close look at your rear chassis crossmember, the black bit under the back door. Is it looking a little oxidised, if you run your finger on it does it look blacker?
New defenders since about 2001, have had very poor chassis paint that does appear to be UV stable. The paint oxidizes in a matter of weeks, in the Aussie sun. Every defender I have bought (MY03, MY09 and MY13) has had oxidized paint on that rear xmember within 3-4 weeks of parking outside.
If you leave it, then after 4-5 years your paint will be gone and the xmember will rust. I had my first defender (MY03) fixed under warranty at 5 years of age after I realised there was a lot of surface rust. I had my new My13 repainted at 4 weeks of age due to oxidised paint.
Easier to get this fixed sooner than later - you have to shout less when it's still new.
Didge,Quote:
Originally Posted by Didge
Liberal lashings of "debonding compound" fixes the situation with bi-metallic corrosion. It's basically the lesser of 2 evils situation.
My last 3 Defenders (this Puma included) has had systematic bolt replacements with SS and using copper compound and most recently some rather nasty anti corrosion stuff in a tube (advised here on the forum).
It's scary how much corrosion and rust are already on bolt threads being replaced like the chassis tub at the back, bonnet hinges, safari door hinges etc.
My car is only 3 years old, but it did spend a year up north in Pilbara with a lot of beach and the edge of the tidal mangroves driving, and I'm pretty frenetic in my rust proofing efforts. I'm also in the process of applying Tactyl 506 cavity rust inhibitor to every section of chassis I get to work on.
Cheers,
Lou
Thanks Lou, where can one buy this Tactyl 506?
Is it a liquid, thick oil, gel? ie how viscous is it?
Can it be sprayed?
Will it stop existing rust?
cheers Gerald
Autobarn have it here,you can paint it on,or spray it.Painting is more tedious,but you end up with a nice thick coat on everything including your hands.....:pQuote:
Originally Posted by Didge
It is pretty thick,will need to be thinned if you want to spray it on.It will stop existing rust from growing as it will seal it.I would try to get rid of the existing rust and then paint and coat with tectyl.
Comes in 4l tins or an expensive spray can.
Google will provide more info on it.
Hi Didge,Quote:
Originally Posted by Didge
Small typo, its Tectyl 506 with an "e" and its sold by BCF, Autobahn (as per Scarry's post) and Auto one. The 400ml spray can is around $12.00 a pop which is in my mind very expensive, but works very well for localised spots and patches. The coverage is pretty good as well and I'm still on tin one of the 4 I bought.
I've not found a local supplier (WA) that does the 4 liter, but I'll keep looking as I would like to to a UK WAXOIL style full cavity spray on my chassis.
It dries to an amber coloured layer that looks a bit like tree sap/glue and it appears to be doing the job. They do advise that you use a rust converter first to halt the rust before applying the rust inhibitor.
Fish oil does about the same, but I grew up inland and I honestly can't be dealing with the smell...
Cheers,
Lou
Blackwoods has a 4L and 20L, but I don't remember if you need an ABN to buy from them.
https://www.blackwoods.com.au/search...line/307821676
Thanks scarry, Loubrey and featherweight,
I'll check out autobarn but won't be buying a spraycan at those prices. The fishoil is supposed to be odourless and only has a light smell for a about a week but it tends to stay tacky and collect dust. A panel beater told me to our used sump oil into the bottom of the doors so it finds its way into every crevice and just let it seep out and that'll stop further rusting in the bottom of doors, etc.
I saw an interesting video on youtube where some USA company is making fibreglass defender doors. They test it with a hammer and it looks pretty damn tough.
Thanks again guys
cheers Gerald