Thread: 97 130 Defender Engine / Upgrade Options?

Hi Shane,

If the vents leak then just replace the seals. If you don't like them open then just keep them closed. There's little point in welding them shut when there's a lever that will do it for you - it allows you to change your mind later as you might think differently about it next summer.

Looking at the photos you've got a lot of other things that should take priority over black paint, converting to an auto or installing a larger engine. Consider starting with securing the battery in place, then move on to ensuring reliability and rectifying any structurally significant rust. As an aside, I'd be concerned that the engine needed to be rebuilt after only 124,000Km - if you don't already have the details then perhaps MR can fill you in.

It sounds like you've got a DIY disposition, so the car can give you many years of enjoyment and a lot of satisfaction. Welcome to the forum and enjoy the ride!

Where about in Brisbane are you ?.
If you need any pointers just yell out.
I've spent 6 months on my 95 model replacing most things.

Bender doesn't seem too bad from the photos.
I've seen worse.

Cheers,
Tony

Originally Posted by Bushie

Looks like it spent a lot of its life on the beach.

Welding the vents shut will only maginally assist in keeping water 'in', it won't help keeping it out .

The vents, as others have said, are one of the best bits on a Landy.


Martyn

I'd say it has, i have a feeling the owner had another house on Stradbroke island.

And i'm sure i'll be keeping the vents now :-)

Originally Posted by RVR110

Hi Shane,

If the vents leak then just replace the seals. If you don't like them open then just keep them closed. There's little point in welding them shut when there's a lever that will do it for you - it allows you to change your mind later as you might think differently about it next summer.

Looking at the photos you've got a lot of other things that should take priority over black paint, converting to an auto or installing a larger engine. Consider starting with securing the battery in place, then move on to ensuring reliability and rectifying any structurally significant rust. As an aside, I'd be concerned that the engine needed to be rebuilt after only 124,000Km - if you don't already have the details then perhaps MR can fill you in.

It sounds like you've got a DIY disposition, so the car can give you many years of enjoyment and a lot of satisfaction. Welcome to the forum and enjoy the ride!

One of the major good points about the car is, that it has had a new chassis fitted and by MR automotive too. The chassis is clean of any rust and in excellent condition.

So most of my work will focus around the rust in the doors and bulk head. And i'm only looking at an auto box because the clutch has worn out. So i may as well fit an auto box instead of putting a manual back in there

And yeah, i've restored a few cars, so DIY is the way to go!

Depending on which donor car i purchase, which is either a disco 1 auto or disco 2 auto at this stage

Thanks, there is an absolute wealth of knowledge on this forum! Just going through each thread one at a time.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

Am I the only one who sees some irony here.

I don't own a disco 4, never will

Originally Posted by jboot51

Where about in Brisbane are you ?.
If you need any pointers just yell out.
I've spent 6 months on my 95 model replacing most things.

Bender doesn't seem too bad from the photos.
I've seen worse.

Cheers,
Tony

Thanks tony! I'm at cannon hill. Sure, will do!

Seen a lot worse Defeers. Yours is a little rough but given its age it is good a good base platform to work with. I would not be throwing bits off or welding them up, just do the priority which is rust and the clutch and even the rust does not look real bad for a beach car. The TDi will give years of service yet, Mine is 310000kms and still good
Touring? Most 'Touring' is open road anyway and you dont change gears much I find. Cheers Scott