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The specials I had done cost about $200 more each than off the shelf Maxis.
The reality is that I would prefer not to swap halfshafts, if I have to then it will be HD. Its not an argument that I was going to swap anyway, I wasn't, but if I have to then it will be HD. 4 standard axles is also expensive, but not quite as much 4 HDQuote:
Originally Posted by uninformed
Getting the replacement brake line made up.. is the size and thread of the end that goes into the valve on the firewall the same as the to be fitted Disco master cylinder? Or is there an identifier that I can give the brake place to have it made up?
Of course I can remove it and take the line along with the new master cylinder to the brake place but as the 110 is currently my primary mode of transport if there is an easier way I'll take it. :)
Yes, valve end is same as the disco M/C end.
Steve
Spent the afternoon playing with hubs and stub axles.
My Defender has the same narrow bearing spacing as the Disco 1 hubs and the stub axles are the same dimensions on the bearing side as each other. As has been indicated above the D1 hub will give a 10mm narrower track* per side, so need spacers between the axle housing and stub axle.
Talking to Gary (cookey) we can make a 10mm spacer that will cup the axle housing the same as the original stub and reduce it so the stub fits over the spacer. These spacers will also be used as the caliper mounts, so all looks go for 6 x Defender ventilated rotors and non OEM 4 pot calipers.
Will have to bite the bullet and get 10mm longer half-shafts, not a problem for the rear sals as am fitting a Maxidrive to the rear so will option it with the longer halfshafts.
The intermediate axle is more of a problem because the Disco1 Maxi as different spline to the Rover hemisphere, so cant re-use the maxi half-shafts (which are 15mm longer than the Defender ones anyway).
* Original Defender hub to hub 1560mm, using D1 hubs 1540mm.
Is the 10mm or so the difference between a County 110 flange and longer splines and a later Defender flange with shorter splines? Or am I misreading something?
Hi Mark
My Defender has the narrow bearing spacings, so am assuming its not the same as the wider bearing spacings on the earlier 110s.
When I sat the drum brake hub on the floor next to the Disco 1 hub there was about 8mm difference in height at the wheel face, this difference would be the thickness of the drum. Then I sat the disco hub on the Defender stub axle and measured across the axle assembly (1 drum 1 disk hub) and the measurement was 1550mm or 10mm less than the original taken 10 min before.
Diana
does the narrower track effect the flanges? Even though I had a maxi-drive, I have the standard flanges (which are pretty worn out). I called MR today but it seems there are two versions - Disk and drum.
So.. Talking to Murray today, he said that his Drum style flanges that were fitted before hand still fitted after.. But I don't know exactly what the differences are, however I think it is the length of the splines.
Anyone have any ideas?
Mark
Was just re-reading this thread, what I didn't measure was the height of the two hubs at the flange face. While I am assuming the halfshafts will need to be 10mm longer I haven't actually measured them.
There is also the change in length when you fit Maxi-flanges.
Will make this a task for the weekend.
Diana
I thought this too, but speaking with Murray his fitted before and after on a 110 with a maxi-drive locker and the early-type stub shaft and front hub combination.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies
Assuming you are talking about converting your County, forget about Diana's references to extended custom axles etc on the 6x6 as I think its confusing things.Quote:
Originally Posted by flagg
In my experience the only practical way to compare the different setups is to mount them properly on appropriate stub axles and then measure the overall dimensions. With the variations in the different hubs and stubs I found it too confusing just trying to measure things individually.
Some hub/stub combinations just don't work (even though they look like they do when you sit them together roughly).
If using you are using County front hubs (ie end up with 20mm total narrower track) then you need early (long) axles and thick flanges.
If using D1/Defender disc hubs and stubs which give original track, you need later (short) axles and thin flanges.
There may be variations on the actual lengths of the axles with aftermarket stuff. From what I've read, Maxi created the longer spline "X" axles, and I'm not sure if that was a physically longer axle, but you need to use the "X" flanges AFAIK.
Largely irrelevant though, as the bottom line is there are only 2 general types of axles - early (long) and late (short). Keep it at that level and its simple.
Arrangements I've physically run:
County front hubs, FRC3132 stubs, standard (long) axles, standard (thick) flanges. ~20mm narrower track than standard.
County front hubs, FRC3132 stubs, standard (long) axles, generic aftermarket (thick) heavy duty flanges (not maxi/hi-tough/ashcroft). ~20mm narrower track than standard.
D1 hubs, FTC1740 stubs, Maxi "X" defender (short) axles and matching flanges. Standard track.
Edit: BTW - there is a difference in locating diameter between thick and thin flanges, so putting thin flanges on hubs that are meant to have thick ones isn't a practical option for mix/matching.
Steve