County rear disk brake conversion, pics & p/n's

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Originally Posted by steveG

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Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

Have been talking to Barry at Hi-Tough this morning, we may be able to do the conversions with the FTC1740 stubs, Disco 1 hubs and use one of the HTE flanges to compensate for the different axle length. Even if we need a batch of special flanges.

The Disco hubs require different flanges to the drum Defender already.

Awaiting my measurements over the weekend.

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That would be a really good option for those who already have an investment in early style (long) aftermarket axles.

Steve

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Have been unable to acquire the FTC 1740 stubs in Sydney, does anyone close by have one I could borrow Friday till Sunday?

Suppose it wouldn't do to ask if there is a hub combo that'll reduce front track by the requisite amount to keep track equal front and rear?

Which would also mean my rim/tyre combo would fit under the guards just about perfectly instead of rubbing on the guards at full tuck ;)

Are the bearings the same between the the flat type and slot type stub axles? ( that Murray has pictures of at the start of this thread) I bought a kit that has the slot type washers and timkin bearings p/n stc4382 but they will require "encouragement" to go on the stub axles. The old ones slid off without any trouble - not sure what is right here?

All the same bearings.
Not just a machining burr is it? Or simply cocked a bit?

Steve

Flagg, my new bearings were the same, old ones slid off, new ones I had to drive one. They were timken as well.

Thanks guys, with some oil and cleaning up I was able to get them on.

I am just abut to fit a Full Disc braked axle to the rear of my 93 200tdi Defender 110 .

I have read this whole thread :eek::eek: and have found no mention of a residual valve in the factory rear drum break circuit .

normally when doing rear disc break conversions on other 4x4s (suzuki/toyota), You have to remove the reside valve from the rear break circuit. This is to stop the pads constantly rubbing on the discs and prematurely wearing out.
Drums require this valve to stop brake creep AFAIK

I would assume that a D1 booster does not have one as it is designed for disc brakes on all corners .

I would prefer to just keep the Defender booster for now as
A: I just found out about the D1 Booster (this thread) and I don't have one
B: Less work on the Brakes for me :angel:
C: Can be done on the future

Can anyone enlighten me further in regards to the residual valve?

I have never seen a residual valve on a 110. There is just a straight line between the proportioning valve at the front and the rear flex line on all I have seen.

I just swapped the rear axle in a 1987 110. I touched nothing else in the braking system. The brakes work well and the rears don't lock up too early.

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

I have never seen a residual valve on a 110. There is just a straight line between the proportioning valve at the front and the rear flex line on all I have seen.

I just swapped the rear axle in a 1987 110. I touched nothing else in the braking system. The brakes work well and the rears don't lock up too early.

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Is it a proportioning valve, or merely a brake fail switch that activates when there is significantly differential pressures in the front and rear systems?

Well the 110 (and Disco) brake fluid reservoir is split in 2 halves so if there's a leak you can only lose half. I guess this mitigates the need for the safety value function?