Yeah, my rear axle has the full Maxi treatment, tubing, diff lock, axles, drive flanges.Quote:
Originally Posted by 123rover50
Cheers, Murray
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Yeah, my rear axle has the full Maxi treatment, tubing, diff lock, axles, drive flanges.Quote:
Originally Posted by 123rover50
Cheers, Murray
AFAIK, all drum braked defenders have the longer stubs, shafts and wider hubs. There are no rear disc 200tdi with long stubs etc. So in essence a early defender is very similar to a 110.
As ridji retained the same stubs and flanges, his shafts stay the same.
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Originally Posted by 123rover50
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Originally Posted by flagg
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Originally Posted by the_preacher1973
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Originally Posted by LRO
G'day guys,
I could do a run of brackets, but I should explain, they are not a 'one size fits all'.
As I explained in the thread the 12mm bracket has to be machined down in thickness to suit the offset of whatever combination of callipers, disk, hub you use.
For example, Steve needed ~10.5mm and mine worked out to ~9.5mm
So, if I was to supply these, you would need to be able to machine the 12mm bracket to suit unless you can work out the exact thickness you need for me to machine them.
The holes are straight off the laser cutter in the 12mm and the two bigger holes in the 16mm, but the smaller holes in the 16mm have to be drilled manually using the 12mm bracket as a jig as the laser can't cut them. All holes have to be tapped.
So, there is a little work to do to get them right, and although it's not difficult, it takes time (of which I have little to spare these days)
Looking at what the laser cutting cost, a set of brackets (both ends of axle) could be supplied, drilled but no machining or tapping for $80 per set. This would be non-profit and not through my business.
Machining would be extra, but only to cover my time.
Obviously it would be best to do them in one batch, so we'll see what interest we get and take it from there.
Cheers, Murray
I replaced my rear stubs with earlier County ones. The shaft length isn't affected. The difference is in the length of the bearing surface on the stubs and the type of thrust washer. The drum braked type (late County/early Defender) have a 10mm thick washer incorporating a seal where the early County has a 3mm washer.Quote:
Originally Posted by uninformed
You can see in this pic how the overall length is the same, but the shoulder where the thrust washer goes is machined back further on the drum stub. This also pushes the bearings in to a narrower spacing, not as narrow as a later Defender, but narrower than the early County bearings.
Cheers, Murray
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/10/748.jpg
thanks, I was under the impression that there were only 2 different stubs, early long drum and later short disc.
It's likely that my 9.5mm should really be your 10.5mm, but it was "close enough". Its a backyard hack vs craftsman thing :p
Will see for sure when I do the set for my new diff.
If that's the case then probably the simplest way is for everyone to stick with the known working combination of parts and machine all the spacers to the same dimension.
We're all mates here, but it probably needs to be spelled out that its a brake mod and therefore requires people to sort out their own engineering/certification as applicable. I'd hate to see you doing a good deed for members and having it bite you on the bum.
Steve
I think the reason I'm confused is because I was looking at the Army disk brake retrofit done on the Perentie 110s, which use the same stub but use a unique hub and a calliper bracket that is a single flat plate without the cranking of the OEM bracket or the laminated one Rijidij has made.Quote:
Originally Posted by uninformed
The Army retrofit also use the four pot callipers off the front of an early Defender 90. What may be the difference in the Army hubs is that they have had the back side machined down to accommodate the flat bracket, bringing the calliper further inside the dish of the rim.
Do you actually have to fit the disk on the front of the stub axle where the backing plate used to fit? What purpose does it serve?
You mean the one thats held on by the stub axle mount bolts?Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies
If so, its a mud shield. Its a reasonably close fit inside the brake disc and meant to stop it filling up with rubbish.
No real reason you couldn't leave it out if you really wanted to - it doesn't contribute to the brake fit/function.
Steve
Apologies if it has been mentioned, but what is the diameter of the D1 pistons vs 110/130 rear calipers?
To add to the above, I've just found that the mounting holes in the early D1 calipers are slightly smaller diameter too.Quote:
Originally Posted by steveG
If you stick with the later calipers you'll at least keep some commonality with defender bits, as the caliper bolts are the same.
Steve