Thread: County rear disk brake conversion, pics & p/n's

I don't know if this is of any relevance but one of our members on this forum is making disk brake conversion kits for series Land Rovers. He is fitting the rotors to the back of the original series hubs and turning out the centre of the old drums to restore the original track. It is not considered a spacer because it is an original part.

This system has been approved by an engineer.

It would certainly save some of the hassles.

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

I don't know if this is of any relevance but one of our members on this forum is making disk brake conversion kits for series Land Rovers. He is fitting the rotors to the back of the original series hubs and turning out the centre of the old drums to restore the original track. It is not considered a spacer because it is an original part.

This system has been approved by an engineer.

It would certainly save some of the hassles.

Not sure what you're getting at there...

Are you suggesting using one of his kits, or just using the idea and fitting rotors to the original drum braked hubs, and then using the *non-spacer* to sort out the track?

Guess it depends on your definition of hassles. Both of those options have a high hassle level in my book

IMO the least hassle options to get rear discs and keep original track are:
1. Disc conversion using Defender hubs/axles.
2. Swap in a complete Defender disc braked assy.

Steve

Originally Posted by steveG

Not sure what you're getting at there...

Are you suggesting using one of his kits, or just using the idea and fitting rotors to the original drum braked hubs, and then using the *non-spacer* to sort out the track? <No talking about machining and drilling the back of the standard drum brake Defender hubs to accept the rotor.>

Guess it depends on your definition of hassles. Both of those options have a high hassle level in my book

IMO the least hassle options to get rear discs and keep original track are:
1. Disc conversion using Defender hubs/axles. <4 X Hi-Tough, Ashcroft or JacMac axle halfshafts make the conversion much more expensive.>
2. Swap in a complete Defender disc braked assy. <Might be possible if my intermediate assembly was a standard assembly, but it's not>

Steve

In Red

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

... fitting the rotors to the back of the original series hubs ...

I have never been a huge fan of that method. It requires machining off the supporting ribs, and series hubs (edit and 110 drum hubs) are a lot thinner (where it counts) than coiler/disc hubs.

I know a few people who have been running similar setups for ~10 years, however I wouldn't like to use it on a vehicle carrying heavy loads over corrugated tracks (for example).

I would certainly *never* use that method on a coiler.

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

..................one of our members on this forum is making disk brake conversion kits for series Land Rovers.........

Is there a thread on this, I would love disks on the front of my 2A but haven't looked in to it yet.

Cheers, Murray

Originally Posted by rijidij

Is there a thread on this, I would love disks on the front of my 2A but haven't looked in to it yet.

Cheers, Murray

Hi Murray

Its "cookey" Series disc brake conversion --- I did it my way he is onto version 2, which will enable ventilated disks front and rear (60:40 bias) and will be able to be fitted on any swivel housing. Previously it was only one of the four different castings and required an exchange.

You need to have SIII hubs and a six cylinder pedal box to exchange, or Gary will supply at additional cost.

Unlike the Zeuss and Hastee conversions you can use standard Land Rover wheel rims.

Arrrgh
Diana

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

I don't know if this is of any relevance but one of our members on this forum is making disk brake conversion kits for series Land Rovers. He is fitting the rotors to the back of the original series hubs and turning out the centre of the old drums to restore the original track. It is not considered a spacer because it is an original part.

This system has been approved by an engineer.

It would certainly save some of the hassles.

And also taking into account your other reply in red:

It appeared you were talking in generalities, but are actually taking about your particular requirements for your 6x6.....

What axles are you running now? Do you already have HD aftermarket. I ask because you factor in the cost of these against, yet not for your idea of easy....

Its not only the hub that needs machining, but the drum or a spacer made up as you already said. How much would this cost for 4 hubs and spacers.....

I thought your middle diff was a Rover type???

What about the idea of an 8-10mm spacer in between the axle flange and the stub axle. Yes you would need new axles, but if upgrading the assemably the same time as converting, getting the axles made 8-10mm longer wouldnt be hard. Plus the fact that the stock axles could apparently use some more engagement at the diff end.

Originally Posted by uninformed

And also taking into account your other reply in red:

It appeared you were talking in generalities, but are actually taking about your particular requirements for your 6x6..... < Both, wanting to hear opinions of others, understanding that my conversion has added cmplexity and at least double the cost. >

What axles are you running now? Do you already have HD aftermarket. I ask because you factor in the cost of these against, yet not for your idea of easy.... < It's currently running standard axle halfshafts, but have a Maxidrive to fit to the middle diff and therefore changing lengths requires replacing the halfshafts. Swapping in a Defender disk assembly adds even more cost. >

Its not only the hub that needs machining, but the drum or a spacer made up as you already said. How much would this cost for 4 hubs and spacers..... < Part of my collection lives with cookey's collection, so machining hubs and drums is less of a problem/cost than finding correct hubs and halfshafts. >

I thought your middle diff was a Rover type??? < A very special Rover diff with power-divider and through-drive. >

What about the idea of an 8-10mm spacer in between the axle flange and the stub axle. Yes you would need new axles, but if upgrading the assemably the same time as converting, getting the axles made 8-10mm longer wouldnt be hard. < I don't know if you have ever has special halfshafts made, but I have and they are more expensive than standard length axles, also a problem with delays when you break them > Plus the fact that the stock axles could apparently use some more engagement at the diff end.

Why would you ever buy standard axles when HD are available? It doesnt make sense to me.