Thread: County rear disk brake conversion, pics & p/n's

The specials I had done cost about $200 more each than off the shelf Maxis.

The reality is that I would prefer not to swap halfshafts, if I have to then it will be HD. Its not an argument that I was going to swap anyway, I wasn't, but if I have to then it will be HD. 4 standard axles is also expensive, but not quite as much 4 HD

Originally Posted by uninformed

... How can custom axles be a big difference in price. Its not like they are cnc'ing these all day long and have to write a new programme, Some still do the profiling on a lathe. Its only 10mm so its not going to stuff up their quantities out of stock supplies. < Because they were very special specials with an ENV spline at the diff end and Stage 1 CV splines at the other. It is however my only experience of having specials made and there was probably a lot of swarf/waste owing the the O.D. of the ENV spline. >

If your center diff is a special hybrid, then chances are its going to need something unique. And I thought you had issues with the MD locker fitting in the oppostie side for your centre diff and was going to require new half shafts anyway < According to MR Automotive I can't have the MD locker on the long side, so it will go in the front, but I can still, maybe, use the D1 Maxi halfshafts in the intermediate axle. >

....

maybe the easiest thing for you would be to source some AYG7305 hubs? < I have been trying to find 4 of the things for over 12 months, hence other options now..>

Originally Posted by flagg

does the narrower track effect the flanges? Even though I had a maxi-drive, I have the standard flanges (which are pretty worn out). I called MR today but it seems there are two versions - Disk and drum.

So.. Talking to Murray today, he said that his Drum style flanges that were fitted before hand still fitted after.. But I don't know exactly what the differences are, however I think it is the length of the splines.

Anyone have any ideas?

Assuming you are talking about converting your County, forget about Diana's references to extended custom axles etc on the 6x6 as I think its confusing things.
In my experience the only practical way to compare the different setups is to mount them properly on appropriate stub axles and then measure the overall dimensions. With the variations in the different hubs and stubs I found it too confusing just trying to measure things individually.
Some hub/stub combinations just don't work (even though they look like they do when you sit them together roughly).

If using you are using County front hubs (ie end up with 20mm total narrower track) then you need early (long) axles and thick flanges.
If using D1/Defender disc hubs and stubs which give original track, you need later (short) axles and thin flanges.

There may be variations on the actual lengths of the axles with aftermarket stuff. From what I've read, Maxi created the longer spline "X" axles, and I'm not sure if that was a physically longer axle, but you need to use the "X" flanges AFAIK.
Largely irrelevant though, as the bottom line is there are only 2 general types of axles - early (long) and late (short). Keep it at that level and its simple.

Arrangements I've physically run:
County front hubs, FRC3132 stubs, standard (long) axles, standard (thick) flanges. ~20mm narrower track than standard.
County front hubs, FRC3132 stubs, standard (long) axles, generic aftermarket (thick) heavy duty flanges (not maxi/hi-tough/ashcroft). ~20mm narrower track than standard.
D1 hubs, FTC1740 stubs, Maxi "X" defender (short) axles and matching flanges. Standard track.

Edit: BTW - there is a difference in locating diameter between thick and thin flanges, so putting thin flanges on hubs that are meant to have thick ones isn't a practical option for mix/matching.

Steve