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common causes are
incorrect bearing adjustment
bent stub axle
stepped stub axle (its a wear thing)
bent axle tube
stretched bolts
plugged bolt holes in the flange
not enough elbow grease on the torque wrench
as alluded to with the lock wire thing.
any thing short of some investigative mechanicary and fixery is just putting a bandaid on it.
Thanks all, does anyone know the size and length of the 5 bolts used for the drive flange to hub?
Just happens I've been messing round with flanges/bolts in the last few days:Quote:
Originally Posted by GyroLandy
County (thick drive flanges) 50mm, M10x1.5 Grade 10.9
Tdi vintage Defender (thin flanges) 45mm, M10x1.5 Grade 10.9. Landrover P/N is BX110095M.
I haven't played with anything newer than a Tdi so can't confirm if the later defenders are the same.
Steve
Thx,
I measured the existing bolts and tehy are only 35mm so I woudl imagine with a Maxi-Drive flange being thicker there isn't that much left to grip.
I have decided to go with teh following:
Nordloc washers
A longer allen key bolt (45mm) but also bouth 50mm but need to check whether they will work.
Locktite
Question on the Locktite, I bought the 263 which is the high strength but I see most people refer to the 243 (which I presume is medium strength. Any views on whether I should use the 263 or will I have trouble later getting it undone?
When I was writing my earlier post, I was fairly certain the new bolts I was supplied with were 35mm long. IMHO too short with maxi-drive flanges.Quote:
Originally Posted by GyroLandy
I also believe I replaced them with 50mm long bolts, but had to counter drill the hub slightly as per my earlier post.
From memory, 45mm long would be about right and not need counter drilling, but I saw advantages in using the 50mm long bolts.
I checked last night and the maxi-drive flange is pretty much the same thickness as the standard defender one (ie thin flange). Within 0.5mm.Quote:
Originally Posted by GyroLandy
I personally wouldn't use allen head bolts as its just another "special" tool you have to have should you ever need to get the flange off trackside.
Your choice though.
50mm bolts on thin flanges became shank-bound when I checked. You might be OK if those Nordloc washers are pretty thick, but best to run a bolt in and measure before fitting the flanges.
If you've been running shorter bolts make sure you clean out any sealant inside the holes as it can be enough to hydraulic and stop the bolts going in to far enough (or rip the threads out if you force the issue).
Don't have any experience with the high-strength Loctites apart from bearing retainer so can't comment on that.
Steve
your primary loctite products for working on landrovers are
1. loctite 243 pretty much any bolt that gets done up to 65ish nm or to reuse a nyloc
2 loctite 262 any bolt that goes over 65nm
3. silver antisieze or copper antisieze, wheel nut threads and faces and the shanks of any bolt that go into dis-similar metals
4. loctite #3 the brown goopy stuff used to paint on gaskets to help them seal and in somecases to provide a seal.
5. loctite 567 its thread tape in a toothpaste tube, use it on any fitting that uses the thread to achieve a seal