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OK I picked up a 52mm deep impact socket from bolts and bits or what ever it is called.
I managed to get the hub nut off and removed the hub and disc, but I have a question. I have oil leaking out the back of my Swivel/CV bit, is this to be expected? I forgot to tighten up the bolts that hold on the brake pipe bracket so I am wondering if this is the cause, it started leaking as soon as the impact wrench went to work so I think I have loosened a seal in there somewhere, I hope that just putting it back together will stop it.
Any suggestions? And what oil should I replace back in there?
Biting of more than I can chew has come to mind a few times, but I am chewing hard and fast!! Run out of YouTube videos to watch :eek:
Cheers
Pat
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from memory the brake line brackes sit under the swivel pins bolts.....soo yes if these were left loose than it might leak oil
i avoid using rattle guns to remove bolts as you have reduced feel is something is not quite right.....i never use one for assembly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by
sheerluck
No, there's two of us :D
Make that 3 but I cut my own just do a heap at a it e so I don't have to make more for ages
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with the brake line retainer clip undone the top swivel bearing becomes loose and the oil gets past the seal. Tighten up and it will stop.
80/90wt gear oil will suit the swivel hub.
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Nearly done
Well, I have one side completed and the other nearly, just need to torque up the drive flange and put some new split pins in for the pads.
But thank you to you all for your help and advice and offers of assistance.
I don't think I would have attempted doing this if I did not have a Land Rover and such great support on the Forum.
While I was working on it I noticed the bottom bolts on my cross member under the gearbox are sticking out about an inch on both sides, the LR dealer on the gold coast changed the clutch and fixed an oil leak on the transfer case last month so I suspect they put them in and forgot to do them up. I could tighten them up myself but I think I would rather take it down to them to see where they went wrong, it makes you wonder what else is wrong.
I am glad I did the discs myself now, at least I know everything is tight to the correct torque, I was lucky with the Hub Nut, it needs to go to 210nm and my torque bar went to 215, the first stroke of luck the whole time.
Weeds I took your advice, I assembled everything by hand, I still had to use the rattle gun to get the hub nut off though, could not budge it otherwise, but on the second side I had no oil leak as I put the swivel pin bolts back in before taking off the hub nut.
I topped up the oil in there to but not sure if there is anyway to check the level, I put around 300ml in, as I estimate that is what I lost.
I should have it finished tomorrow morning now and be able to take it for a drive, as I live on a mountain I don't want to test the brakes going down, I will have to go further up and hope they are OK for the run back down to my house :D.
Quick question, can you have too much grease in the bearings? with both wheels I have used about half a tub, the tub size I think is 500ml or could have been 500grams, not sure. I have put plenty under the flange as rick suggested so should be good for 20k.
So thanks again, I reckon I am in the beer debt now..
Cheers
Pat
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JOB DONE!! Woohoo, I even have oily stained hands I can't clean, this mechanical stuff is fun when your finished.
Breaks are binding slightly but guessing they need to wear in.
Thanks again for all your help guys.
p.s. if anyone needs to borrow a deep 52mm socket on the Gold Coast then I have you covered!!
Pat.
