Is she running hot?

Hi Lebanon,
I would think if you radiator has been in since 1990 as mentioned by others you would be well overdue for at least getting yours reconditioned. I weight mine, I weighed a new genuine one in a LR shop so I know I'm getting a good datum. I then took mine out of the car, flushed it cleaned it and blew it out with air then I weighed it, found over a kilo difference so I put a new radiator in, and yes weighed the new one before I put it in so I can see how much crap it has in it in the future.
Quit basic and rudimentary I know but it gives me an idea. My 110 never goe above half way. I would have said looking at yours it is a bit clogged.
I have found that if the radiator is clear the gauge stays were it is and any additional heat load is taken by the thermostat either opening more or closing when on the overrun going down a hill, this is keeping the engine at a regular temp, once the gauge starts moving this tells you the thermostat is fully open and the radiator / fan can't cope with the additional heat load. Lost some efficiency.

By the way, I put a four core radiator in my Pootrol replacing a three core (quite a while ago), the engine actually ran hotter because the fan and the system was only designed to pull the air through a three core plus the air con rad. I ended up putting a three core back in, this was just a lesson for me. I suspect that if you go to a four core you could fit twin thermo fans, this would more than likely fix that problem.
I got a set of twin thermo fans from an old Ford Falcon an AU I think, they worked a treat.

Thank you mates for your replies, I have put a list of action to remedy this problem.

1. Replace the thermostat.
2. Check the viscous fan once more ( I have previously used the newspaper method, now I will try stopping the engine when hot and try turning the fan)
3. Fit a VDO temperature gauge and sender
4. Replace the radiator even though it is clean because it was rodded every couple of years

the missing component of the cooling system that wasn't checked is the water pump, but since I have no issue with the heat while driving on the high-way I believe that it is OK

Re the viscous fan - I've never had much luck with hand tests on these, they will always slip a little and it's hard to tell what it's doing when the engine is revving at 2000 rpm. As I understand it, the viscous coupling relies on centrifugal oil pressure inside to perform the locking, a bimetallic strip controls a valve which controls how much lockup there is. The bimetallic strip detects the air temperature of the air flowing over the radiator.

But it should be quite obvious from the cab when the fan has engaged, you'll hear the additional roaring/droning sound, which will quickly dissapear as the radiator cools down.

Viscous fan in my old Rangie was controlled by 2 x 6mm bolts straight through it. :D:D
Never missed a beat in the 450000km I put on it.


Martyn

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bushie

Viscous fan in my old Rangie was controlled by 2 x 6mm bolts straight through it. :D:D
Never missed a beat in the 450000km I put on it.


Martyn

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I have the same configuration on an old viscous fan somewhere in my workshop, but it makes the fuel consumption soar high. I must confess that is pretty efficient.

Ah - Yes I too have experienced the pleasure of a locked up viscous unit, although that one had seized. Was in a nearly mint 83 Range Rover, whilst dragging a commodore off at the lights, the damned fan exploded, and took out a power steering hose, put a rather neat set of large dents in the bonnet, smashed the radiator, and the fan cowling. I nearly crapped myself with the noise. Made a Huge Mess of the engine bay! So if you do plan to put a bolt in it - it might be worth putting a new set of blades on it, otherwise could be "fun"

Hi,

I am ordering a VDO temperature gauge with the sensor, any idea about the temperature sensor thread size for the manifold of the V8 with carburetors?

I am sorry for asking but I have no access to my 110.

Thank you.

My 1995 300Tdi in the Disco has had both the radiator and viscous fan replaced, so if yours are 1990 originals I'd say they're probably on the way out. My radiator still worked reasonably OK in normal driving when it was replaced 4 years ago, but once it was out it was obvious there was a lot of damage and reduced circulation.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lebanon

Hi,

I am ordering a VDO temperature gauge with the sensor, any idea about the temperature sensor thread size for the manifold of the V8 with carburetors?

I am sorry for asking but I have no access to my 110.

Thank you.

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I have fitted a temp gauge and new sensor as I was not happy with the LR standard. My 110 runs around 86 to 92. I find with cruse on driving slower is when the temp rises.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lebanon

Thank you mates for your replies, I have put a list of action to remedy this problem.

1. Replace the thermostat.
2. Check the viscous fan once more ( I have previously used the newspaper method, now I will try stopping the engine when hot and try turning the fan)
3. Fit a VDO temperature gauge and sender
4. Replace the radiator even though it is clean because it was rodded every couple of years

the missing component of the cooling system that wasn't checked is the water pump, but since I have no issue with the heat while driving on the high-way I believe that it is OK

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I never thought that all listed items in my previous posting had to be done to solve the overheating problem.

In fact the radiator, thermostat and viscous fan were all defective.

The temperature gauge and sender were also changed to the more accurate VDO product to ensure proper reading of the temperature.

Now the temperature moves between 85 to 90

Thank you all for advise and shared knowledge.