Why does it make you wary? pressure calculations?Quote:
Originally Posted by n plus one
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Why does it make you wary? pressure calculations?Quote:
Originally Posted by n plus one
Both ARB and TJM, in their fitting instructions say that the original ducting needs to be removed and sealed with silicon.
As Landrover don't have a proceedure to remove the duct, and removing the air filter box is an exercise all on its own, I have real reservations as to how often this would actually be done.
I am sure those who have fitted one of my kits with agree that getting the duct out without cutting would be about as easy as doing a Rubik's cube in the dark.
Personally I would fit a nuggets kit every time....I hear they are pretty good :D :D
Absolute pressure at sea level is in the order of 14.7psi (~7kg) - assuming the engine can draw down to somewhere approaching vacuum just before stalling - a 10 square inch area therefore has 70kg of crush force on it. Now think in terms of how much crush force you're subjecting your ducting to and/or your silasticed joints...Quote:
Originally Posted by jimb
By way of comparison, your ducting would be under a similar level of ingress pressure once your car is 10 metres under water...
I do have a feeling your going to love my Snorkle Head ... NotQuote:
Originally Posted by jimb
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/08/555.jpg
my shorkle head of choice comes straight off a Toyota, self cleaning cyclonic (the dust and /or water spins out the little slots on the top), if its good enough flow for their 4.5 turbo V8 diesel its going to have plenty of flow for my Td5
I bought a self cleaning spinny thing for mine when I did the head and turbo on my 300 Tdi. The guy at Turbo Australia convinced me it was a good idea. It's called a "Syclone" or similar. It needed to be sized with respect to engine capacity and max. rpm. Will know more about it's effectiveness after this year's canning trip.
:D By the way I leave in just over 2 weeks... ya think I'm excited?:cool:
I have run Sy Klone pre cleaners on my last 2 trucks and they work great. Spin out the heavy particiles and keep the air filter significantly cleaner.
Always had a doubt about how much water/rain standard snorkel heads potentially let in. The Sy Klone draws from underneath which all but eliminates the rain issue.
You also need to block all drains when fitting a Sy Klone.
PM sent.Quote:
Originally Posted by nugge t
Just installed my Nugget kit and a mantec snorkel. Took me 3.5hrs roughly, I wasn't actually timing. Nugget's kit worked well! It was a bit scary getting my reciprocating saw into the engine bay and chopping up the old air intake :o but I dont think I damaged anything.
Nugget if your not already aware, the Mantec snorkel - Mantec | Quality Land Rover Accessories uses 4 of the 5 holes on the air "vent" on the side of the gaurd. The 5th is in a different spot to accommodate the pipe. If your ever revisiting the design of your kit, it might be worth thinking about adding that hole to the air box.
That's interesting. The Mantec I had previously fitted had 2 clips at the bottom and only 2 screws which screwed through the guard holes ( 2 of the 5) and into the replacement air box.
Just looking at the link and it still only looks like 2 screws with caps in photo. This is the screws which hold the Mantec to the outside of the guard we are referring to?
Sorry my description is average. Here's a couple of pics.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...13/10/1106.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2013/09/64.jpg
I actually had to drill a hole in the body to fit that top left screw. As you can see I used your screws not the nice black ones that Mantec supplied. They wouldn't have held in the plastic because they were metal type screws. I don't really care if the screws stand out anyway.
Edit: that plate that bolts to the body is just a flat plate, no clips or anything. Take the screws out and it falls off, well except for the shoddy silasticing job I did.... that's a long story that got me VERY angry at the time.