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5th September 2013, 10:14 PM
#11
I'd be looking at anything over 0.1 being too high for something as relatively simple as a Defender. When I was checking for drain at breakdowns normal readings for something like a RRS would be in the region of 0.08 and say something like a Ford Focus would be around the 0.03 mark but all cars varied.
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6th September 2013, 02:34 PM
#12
Just did my MY12 Defender and it was pulling 0.16A. Flew to Tamworth early Monday morning and came back yesterday night so it sat at the airport for 4 days and no problems starting. Didn't take note of the voltage when I started but the Ultragauge normally sits at about 14.25 -14.40 volts. Hope that gives you some reference numbers.
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6th September 2013, 03:40 PM
#13
Volts are largely irrelevant, a battery showing 12.5v can still be knackered if its got no amps, 4 days on a new battery isn't really a good indication, mine will start after 2 weeks no problem on its original battery (04 TD5)
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7th September 2013, 03:25 AM
#14
An ultra guage type tool will report the voltage while the engine is running, therefore the 14 odd volts the alt pumps out. Not a good indication of battery volts, and as stated, cranking capacity
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7th September 2013, 06:13 AM
#15
I have narrowed it down thanks NedFlanders,
using the technique suggested. Amp meter in line with all fuses was drawing 0.15, then when i removed the interior light fuse it dropped to 0.07.
then i was stumped so started at the starter motor ( is that the first point the battery goes to? ) so then went right back to the battery with extra leads attached to the starter battery. i have a jumper lead hardwired in to an Anderson plug in the back seat for easy jump starting and this lead was drawing 0.04/5 . it has a light that says if the battery is charged and connected etc but i didn't think it would draw so much.
and now have it down to 0.02 if both those points are unplugged, but i'm unsure how to get them sorted . any tips?
thanks Jake
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7th September 2013, 08:12 AM
#16
Get a better quality radio that doesn't drag the battery down, or turn it off altogether.
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7th September 2013, 08:31 AM
#17
If you removed the interior light fuse it dropped to 0.07 that's acceptable, a decent battery should last on that. Does the interior light switch fuse power anything else?? Some fuses power a number of circuits without you knowing? If it doesn't them look at door switches etc, some alarms also look for volt drop when a door is opened and the light comes on. First checks we used to do was glovebox light and boot light.
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10th September 2013, 11:20 AM
#18
i have a jumper lead hardwired in to an Anderson plug in the back seat for easy jump starting and this lead was drawing 0.04/5 . it has a light that says if the battery is charged and connected etc but i didn't think it would draw so much.
and now have it down to 0.02 if both those points are unplugged, but i'm unsure how to get them sorted . any tips?
Jake,
Have a similiar anderson plug, I have a small house battery for everyday and plug a larger battery into the system when I go away. With mine the LED was in a housing that held the standard Anderson, I could pull the plug apart and cut the LED out. There should be a resistor inline with the LED, take that out as well and tape up the active bare end. Typically the LED will draw about 45 milliamps (0.045A).
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