Dual shock setup

My considerations....

I found that when fully loaded, my vehicle seemed to take quite a few cycles of the shocks to stop the movement, hence thought twin shocks may help.
I spoke with Sydney Shock Absorbers (Bilstein) and he was recommending that for dual shocks you would not just run two of the 'normal' shocks as this was sure to be way too stiff. He thought that if I advised him of my current shocks, and what was wrong, and what I wanted he would be able to come up with a set of paired shocks to do the task together.

For Rear, I was going to add a pair or shock mounts to the back of my current diff housing, and use standard upper mounts, bolted through the chassis rear of the rear axle.
For Front, I have picked up a pair of airbag shock mounts that bolt to the chassis in front of existing towers, and an airbag front housing, running 1 set up the centre of the spring as normal, and the second set in the forward position.

Since I went for articulation on the rear, and long travel Terrafirma shocks, I have not continued.

I think there are a few UK companies that make front bolt on dual shock mounts. They retain the original postion and add one outboard/forward.

I agree in that you would have to get the right shocks length wise and get the valving set to your truck.

My angle is this;

I used to make and sell my own dual rear shock mounts, was a time consuming exercise and back when they weren't commercially available were worthwhile for sure I sent a few heavily loaded 110's and D1's outback with them on...:cool:

BUT; now there are the Koni Raid 90's. http://www.suspensionstuff.com.au/sh...oducts_id=2252 IMO there is no need for twin shocks with these, and IF you are thinking 'what if I damage one?' then the forces required to do that will leave the vehicle undriveable I expect....


IF you really want to go this way though, these are very well priced and work well,
Terrafirma Rear twin shock mount kit | Suspension - Hardware Accessories for Land Rover Vehicles

JC

OK so I am sensing a theme here.

One of the reasons I am looking into dual shocks apart from advice a few years ago Schumachers in Nairobi is that apart from bushes in the past three years the only problem I have had with suspension is snapping pins of the bottom of rear shockers - this has happened to OMEs, Britpart, and Monroe, always on the rear passenger.

I appreciate that Konis are something else in terms of damping but are they any less likely to snap?

At $300+ a corner I can't afford to snap expensive shocks.

Your snapping cheap shocks, because they are "cheap shocks".

Koni raid 90's, research them

I have read a fair amount about expensive shocks Bilstein, Koni etc but have never seen anything to suggest that the expensiveness has been used to stop then from snapping, rather they have "hi tech new fangled damping techno non fade temp disapato magic" are their pins actually stronger?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Leyland1980

the only problem I have had with suspension is snapping pins of the bottom of rear shockers - this has happened to OMEs, Britpart, and Monroe, always on the rear passenger.

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How is your suspension setup? You may have an underlying issue such as your suspension using the shock extension to limit movement rather than the opposite side bump stop. Maybe a few more suspension details would help.

I don't follow how dual rear shocks would stop snapping pins??
Like above is there an underlying problem....
Maybe a bent/twisted bottom mount?
What condition are the chassis to shock metal cup washers??
Are you using polyurethane bushes?
Is there movement in the pin through the chassis mount?

The alignment of rear LR shocks to their mounts through travel is average.
Most bottom pins that I've seen snap, fit into the above categories.
Dual shocks are so eighties compared to the technology size and price of smoothies like kings, billies, fox and koni.
Twins were the 'bomb' when mike smith was racing his blue rangie around the outback and most serious patrols of the time used them as well, but now you would be hard pressed to find a OBC type truck not using a 3 inch smoothie (or coil over)
Instead of being secretive what is the vehicle, corner weights and expected usage??
Have you a price for eight specially valved quality shocks like a Billie or koni?
The TF dual shock kits seem very reasonable for price and get the nod from blokes like JC.

Dc

Quote:

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Originally Posted by modman

I don't follow how dual rear shocks would stop snapping pins??
Like above is there an underlying problem....
Maybe a bent/twisted bottom mount?
What condition are the chassis to shock metal cup washers??
Are you using polyurethane bushes?
Is there movement in the pin through the chassis mount?

The alignment of rear LR shocks to their mounts through travel is average.
Most bottom pins that I've seen snap, fit into the above categories.
Dual shocks are so eighties compared to the technology size and price of smoothies like kings, billies, fox and koni.
Twins were the 'bomb' when mike smith was racing his blue rangie around the outback and most serious patrols of the time used them as well, but now you would be hard pressed to find a OBC type truck not using a 3 inch smoothie (or coil over)
Instead of being secretive what is the vehicle, corner weights and expected usage??
Have you a price for eight specially valved quality shocks like a Billie or koni?
The TF dual shock kits seem very reasonable for price and get the nod from blokes like JC.

Dc

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Yes they are, compared to paying someone to fabricate a set for sure. Only one thing to remember, check the upper bracketry for tightness after initial use, and at each service. they pick up the original 3 top shock mounting holes. I have seen some come loose and break bolt/s. this was on a very loaded 110 hardtop, my guess was they hadn't been retorqued after original fitment.

jc

The broken rear shockie issue is due to the way the axle articulates about the ball joint on the 'A' frame. It shifts the bottom of the shockie sideways and neither the top or bottom mount have enough flexibility to accommodate the sideways travel.

The early mounts were better than later type, but both place bending loads on the shockie. The way billies weld some of their shockies make them particularly subject to breakage.

Suspension lift and long travel make the problem worse.

Dual shockies won't fix this problem, only strong construction of the shockies, to endure the side loads.