Wow.. Another suspension question.

If you do a search on here there are threads on valving billies(bilstein) for defenders, ones like the 7100 short body or the yellow ones and some recommendations on where to get them in the U.S as cheaper. They will tell you rates and lengths etc. Other options are OME, but they only have original length, but you can do other suspension setups that use different shocks again. I've done a gwyn lewis kit with 12 in travel OME(ARB) shocks that where originally for the front of a 4 in lifted patrol, N73L code from memory. I currently have dobinson +2in coils but may get a stronger rear coil in the future as its started to sag a bit, the rear seats,kids stuff and a trailer+ family etc.

Ive always liked the idea of buying a ready to go kit. All the components are matched ready to go. The problem is finding one that is for standard height and not 2inch plus

From recent experience I would not choose Terrafirma as quality control seems to be an issue. Two friends have had them fail within a pretty short time/ km of them being fitted.

Through heavy use or day to day use?

Ones steering damper within a week on city roads and a front shock after about 4500 kms of tar and about 500 kms of gravel roads ( some corrugations), my Brit parts did a lot better!

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Originally Posted by Aaron

Do standard weigh bridges let you weigh your car front and back? Not just the whole car?

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Yes, just drive front on, get a weight, drive completely on, get a weight and check by leaving just the back on.
I find the guys at local tips are very helpful if you explain why.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Aaron

What determines how harsh the car rides... The springs, or the shocks? Driving around town it feels like there is no up or down movement in the car.. Just bumps like it just hops over bumps. Ideal Id like it to hit a bump and for it to glide over it. IE - slowly bounce down and slowly come back up.

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Both do. But to get it right you start with the springs, then the shocks. The spring rates are chosen by the weight they support to give a certain natural frequency. If you unbolt the shocks and bounce the car that's the frequency it will bounce up and down at.
It's not too difficult to calculate and a frequency of around or just over 1hz (1 cycle per second) is about right for comfort and normal driving. Stiffer springs give faster frequency and a more jiggly and harsh ride. Softer springs give lower frequencies and a more wallowing ride.

From there the shock valving is used to both absorb excess bump energy (high speed compression damping), control unloaded spring return (high speed rebound damping) and control body movements (low speed compression and rebound).

Too much damping will also feel harsh, but it's a different feel to springs that are too firm.

You need to get the car weighed to confirm spring rates and heights. Otherwise it can become an expensive game of swap-a-spring.

If you are within normal spring and weight limits then a set of koni's would work very well. Koni's generally have adjustable rebound to cate for a range of driving styles, spring rates and terrain. Once you dial them in, you can literally forget about them.

Thanks for that advice. I might look into the Knoni Heavy Tracks then.

Koni raids seem to be the best all rounder especially at standard height
Some wise words from John and Dougal as well
Maybe confirm there aren't any hard urethane bushes used throughout the suspension system, most people are happy with oem rubber or superpro
You may also want to try disco 2 front turret securing rings, they have a rubber insert and can reduce NVH
Ive always wanted to try a rubber ring in between the rear spring and chassis to see if this decreases NVH as well
I run around with front tyre pressures of 36 but that's on 255s witch have a very high profile.
Dc