Suspension in 2012 110.

I will mess around with the tyre pressures and find what I feel is satisfactory for road and off road. I was happy with the 45 psi for road because the car handled well around town on this pressure. Didn't think to adjust the setting for the change in conditions because I didn't know it was necessary except for driving in sand, just figured the AT's were for all conditions;;). Guess I have alot to learn.

I am hoping I don't need to mess around with the standard suspension setup but does changing shocks and springs etc affect it's load carrying ability, chassis dynamics ( if it has any ) etc?? It's the one area of a car I like to put alot of faith in the manufacturer. Or am I just being naive??

Hi Voltron,

Don't be afraid of much lower pressures on your car as it really doesn't affect your handling that much.

My 90 is an absolutely awful drive above 36 psi and I actually run around for my daily use at 2.2 Bar or around 32.3 psi mathematically.

My car returns 10l/100km or 10km/1l like clockwork on those pressures (both my Goodyear Grabber A/T and my KM2 Muddies).

Certainly shouldn't have suspension issues on such a new car...

Cheers,

Lou

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Originally Posted by BilboBoggles

I also agree with tyre pressures , 32/28 see to work really well on corrugations.

One other thing that might be worth trying - and something I recently did on my 2003 Defender - I had the springs changed to longer but softer springs. I gained about 1-2" in ride height. I'm not sure of the rates but they were a little bit softer than stock, but the ride is unbelievably smooth now. It glides over bumps and corrugations instead of shaking itself to bits. I used to drive range rovers, and am used to the soft almost floating ride, and it's a lot closer to that now. In fact I just got back from a corrugated road trip with a smile on my face with the way it handled.

Only slight issue is that the TD5 does not have sway bars, so it does tend to lean a little bit more in corners, but nothing like the old Range Rover used to do.

The advantage of softer longer springs is that you don't need engineering certificates, the total cost is around $400-$500 and you keep the vehicle stock from a warranty perspective. And you also gain significant increases in offroad articulation.

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I recently did this too with LRA springs on my Isuzu 110. Lovely ride, and in combination with some slightly softer than usual Bilstien shocks. I have a rear sway bar, however (and a locker, so the gain in on road handling is much greater than the loss of off road ability).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Loubrey

Hi Voltron,

Don't be afraid of much lower pressures on your car as it really doesn't affect your handling that much.

My 90 is an absolutely awful drive above 36 psi and I actually run around for my daily use at 2.2 Bar or around 32.3 psi mathematically.

My car returns 10l/100km or 10km/1l like clockwork on those pressures (both my Goodyear Grabber A/T and my KM2 Muddies).

Certainly shouldn't have suspension issues on such a new car...

Cheers,

Lou

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Notes. Thanks for your help.

Cheers.

I run 30 front 35ish rear. higher in the rear with load. that's in a 90. I find the ride harsh even on bitumen if it's up around 40.

Tyre pressures are your primary high-speed suspension (i.e. corrugations) in a live axle vehicle - like others have said, lower your pressures for corrugations.

I run three pairs of Bilstiens, lifted and appropriately-rated springs and rear airbags on my 110 and its performance on corrugations is still primarily determined by tyre pressure settings.

All this fancy stuff above just controls ride height, flex, spring rate, body roll/yaw and other low speed compression/extensions (dips, etc) - if you want your suspension to do much re corrugations you need to dramatically reduce your unsprung mass (i.e. get a Disco 4 :D).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BilboBoggles

I also agree with tyre pressures , 32/28 see to work really well on corrugations.

One other thing that might be worth trying - and something I recently did on my 2003 Defender - I had the springs changed to longer but softer springs. I gained about 1-2" in ride height. I'm not sure of the rates but they were a little bit softer than stock, but the ride is unbelievably smooth now. It glides over bumps and corrugations instead of shaking itself to bits. I used to drive range rovers, and am used to the soft almost floating ride, and it's a lot closer to that now. In fact I just got back from a corrugated road trip with a smile on my face with the way it handled.

Only slight issue is that the TD5 does not have sway bars, so it does tend to lean a little bit more in corners, but nothing like the old Range Rover used to do.

The advantage of softer longer springs is that you don't need engineering certificates, the total cost is around $400-$500 and you keep the vehicle stock from a warranty perspective. And you also gain significant increases in offroad articulation.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by flagg

I recently did this too with LRA springs on my Isuzu 110. Lovely ride, and in combination with some slightly softer than usual Bilstien shocks. I have a rear sway bar, however (and a locker, so the gain in on road handling is much greater than the loss of off road ability).

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by n plus one

Tyre pressures are your primary high-speed suspension (i.e. corrugations) in a live axle vehicle - like others have said, lower your pressures for corrugations.

I run three pairs of Bilstiens, lifted and appropriately-rated springs and rear airbags on my 110 and its performance on corrugations is still primarily determined by tyre pressure settings.

All this fancy stuff above just controls ride height, flex, spring rate, body roll/yaw and other low speed compression/extensions (dips, etc) - if you want your suspension to do much re corrugations you need to dramatically reduce your unsprung mass (i.e. get a Disco 4 :D).

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For a long time, like BilboBoggles and flagg, I have been convinced of the merits of longer, lower rate springs for rough travel conditions, but greater bump travel is required before hitting the bump stop or the advantage is lost. They soak up the big hits/bumps while imposing a lot less stress on vehicle and occupants.

The soft springs do help for corrugations, however the others recommending lower tyre pressures are correct.

n pluss one has put it well.

Also many outback roads are constructed from rocks that will damage your tyres if they are inflated to highway pressures.

Lowering the pressure to suit corrugations and rocky roads, shouldn't require you to continually adjust your pressures when conditions change over the short term, just pay attention to the change in temperature of the tyres when speed increases. Do this a few times and you will soon learn what works best with your vehicle.

Hi voltron , there has been some good advice posted , I would like to add my 10c worth , a good air pump , and tyre gauge are a must , they don't cost to much , and if looked after will give you good service . cheers jimr1.:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bush65

For a long time, like BilboBoggles and flagg, I have been convinced of the merits of longer, lower rate springs for rough travel conditions, but greater bump travel is required before hitting the bump stop or the advantage is lost. They soak up the big hits/bumps while imposing a lot less stress on vehicle and occupants.

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Good point! This is something I didn't mention about my setup, but it certainly helps to have as much (well controlled) travel as possible.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jimr1

Hi voltron , there has been some good advice posted , I would like to add my 10c worth , a good air pump , and tyre gauge are a must , they don't cost to much , and if looked after will give you good service . cheers jimr1.:)

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Thanks Jim.

I got that sorted already. Now I have a reason to use them, haha.

I was in fern tree gully a couple of weeks ago for the Tulip festival ( Wife
and kids wanted to go:D) Nice part of the world.

Cheers.