Salisbury in 130

I've had a Maxi equipped 110 Salisbury in the 130 for years now, got it cheap, was on a drum brake 200Tdi trayback so I used my discs and maxi short axle and drive flanges, just had to buy a long locking axle.
I've done a lot of desert work (including the Simpson and Canning) at GVM without incident.
It's always in the back of my mind though. I still have the original 130 Sals in the shed but the only locker I could afford to put in it is a Detroit or Airlocker. Since I prefer the Maxi, I've just left it there. So far so good.:angel:

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Originally Posted by 2stroke

I've had a Maxi equipped 110 Salisbury in the 130 for years now, got it cheap, was on a drum brake 200Tdi trayback so I used my discs and maxi short axle and drive flanges, just had to buy a long locking axle.
I've done a lot of desert work (including the Simpson and Canning) at GVM without incident.
It's always in the back of my mind though. I still have the original 130 Sals in the shed but the only locker I could afford to put in it is a Detroit or Airlocker. Since I prefer the Maxi, I've just left it there. So far so good.:angel:

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Why can't you pt the Maxi in the 130 housing?

Tony

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Originally Posted by 2stroke

I've had a Maxi equipped 110 Salisbury in the 130 for years now, got it cheap, was on a drum brake 200Tdi trayback so I used my discs and maxi short axle and drive flanges, just had to buy a long locking axle.
I've done a lot of desert work (including the Simpson and Canning) at GVM without incident.
It's always in the back of my mind though. I still have the original 130 Sals in the shed but the only locker I could afford to put in it is a Detroit or Airlocker. Since I prefer the Maxi, I've just left it there. So far so good.:angel:

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Have you had a stub axle off the Maxi one?
Its possible that its had the full treatment with an extra strengthening tube welded inside.

Steve

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Originally Posted by Bush65

You said it won't be loaded to the GVM, how would the rear axle load compare to the rating of a 110 rear axle?

I have given the rear axle ratings of 110 and 130 in an earlier post.

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Thanks John,

My unloaded (city driving) combined F&R axle weight is +- 2,350 kgs. That includes steel bar, winch, sliders, roof rack, heavier than OEM Gwyn Lewis suspension parts, HD prop shafts, 5 x 33" muddies.

I haven't weighed the 110 fully loaded but i did Cape York for 4 weeks and packed all my equipment below the lower window level of the cargo area and a RTT and second spare on the roof.

For the 130 I plan to swap all the bits listed above across including an Alu canopy on a tray for touring trips. I'd fit a water tank and extra fuel tank (but I carried extra water and fuel in the Cape so the difference would be the weight of the container). I didn't use the available space in the 110 for the Cape so I can't imagine I'd pack any more stuff merely because i have more storage.

The real Question is whether, under the 130, the Sals 110 axle with the maxi set up is a stronger than rebuilding a R38 diff with ashcroft goodies.

cheers MLD

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Originally Posted by TonyC

Why can't you pt the Maxi in the 130 housing?

Tony

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Because I'd have to cut a hole in a tube, buy an actuator block and weld it on, all perfectly doable but not simply bolt work.

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Originally Posted by steveG

Have you had a stub axle off the Maxi one?
Its possible that its had the full treatment with an extra strengthening tube welded inside.

Steve

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I've had to pull off a stub a couple times to remove the locking axle, best take more notice next time.:angel:

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Originally Posted by 2stroke

I've had to pull off a stub a couple times to remove the locking axle, best take more notice next time.:angel:

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This is what a tubed one looks like (photo courtesy of Rijidij):
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...16/09/1091.jpg

Steve

I've had 2 p38 rears replaced under warranty and the 3rd was heading down the same path that was in a 110 my new 130 doesn't seem to have as many noises coming from the rear which I have put down to 2 things...1.the 130 does not have traction control which may have placed just enough extra strain on the centre to make them fail quicker or 2.the 130 diff is 20" further away from my ear :D ...for a new diff they are noisy compared to the old sals...I'd pick the sals any day over the new ones...can't comment on rear axle strength really as i always seem to break front right cv's on all my rovers with stock or below stock size tyres :angel:

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Originally Posted by MLD

Quest: would a standard tube sals from a 110 be suitable for a 130?

I plan to buy a Puma 130 and currently have a maxi built sals in the rear of my 110 that i'd like to swap over if/when the acquisition is made. The plan is to make it a tough tourer to carry a slide on box when touring but not loaded to the GVM.

The alternate Q, how hard is it to find a 130 sals? Still be a pain to cut and weld the actuator into a new diff housing.

MLD

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Mark

My 130 has Rear Salisbury and front Rover diff out of an 85 110 County,and no problems;)

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Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f

I've had 2 p38 rears replaced under warranty and the 3rd was heading down the same path that was in a 110 my new 130 doesn't seem to have as many noises coming from the rear which I have put down to 2 things...1.the 130 does not have traction control which may have placed just enough extra strain on the centre to make them fail quicker or 2.the 130 diff is 20" further away from my ear :D ...for a new diff they are noisy compared to the old sals...I'd pick the sals any day over the new ones...can't comment on rear axle strength really as i always seem to break front right cv's on all my rovers with stock or below stock size tyres :angel:

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There's also a few years difference in build date between your 110 and 130, maybe they've started setting them up properly! :angel: