Tdci clutch pedal squeak

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Samblers

Had another play with the clutch pedal box today...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/01/654.jpg

My clutch pedal is now free of squeaks, creaks, and any 'notchy' feeling during operation. On a simple level, all i did was tighten the nuts on the actuation rod which are either side of the silver bush you can see in my picture above. Devil is in the detail however...

Some observations:

- I first removed the fat nyloc nut and removed all previous lubricants from the end of the threaded rod. I pushed the clutch pedal in and jammed it with a block of wood to gain better access.

- the two slim nuts on the clutch cylinder end are too narrow to get any spanner (that i own or have ever seen) on. This drove me slightly crazy. I ended up with the needle ended mole grips on the inner nut. Theres no room to rotate the spanner either. This also drove me crazy.

- the threaded rod and nuts are not metric. Once i'd removed the nyloc nut i thought it would be better to put a double lock nut arrangement on this end too but found that M8 nuts were binding up. It seems that Barbagello Land Rover Perth found this too from the way the threads on the rod were slightly chewed. I ended up putting the old nyloc back on. 13mm spanner.

- The rod spins. In order to get the fat nyloc sufficiently tight i had to get the mole grips on the rod itself. This is a factor in getting the nuts tight enough.

Tightening up these nuts against each other - even until they squash the silver cylinder a little - will stop the rod moving around (even slightly) inside the cylinder, sawing at the cylinder and therefore eliminate the creaky notchy operation. My guess is that most creaky clutch pedal boxes have had too much back and forth adjustment of the nyloc nut (therefore loss of torque) and too much lubricant thrown at them (more loss of torque).

Hopefully i wont be back in a weeks time with more damn creaks

Sam

---

However by doing this you have eliminated ( or appear to) the 1.5mm (1/16") freeplay that must exist at the pedal/pushrod, and will probably produce clutch problems later.



Martyn

Hi Sam, haven't got to it yet, have been somewhat busy I'm afraid, and probably won't get to it for another 6 or so weeks yet. Have to organize some moving etc.
An interesting thought Bushie. I'm thinking maybe it might need a different type of bush maybe (?) Not sure how easy this would be to do, I wonder if there is a "fix" for from LR. In spite of that, putting a set of lock nuts there shouldn't be too difficult to do and still leave the gap required.

Interesting point Bushie, this hadnt escaped my attention...

my aim is to tighten the nuts against the tube such that the sliding/sawing movement of the rod is eliminated, not squash the tube so much that the pedal freeplay is removed completely. i think i've managed that.

I guess the point of the pedal freeplay is to guarantee that the clutch comes off completely. What future problems do you anticipate?

I cant think of another solution

such a simple idea...you would have really thought the darn COMPANY would have thought of it!!!!!...why don't they adopt the idea...oh..thats right..its almost ?1...or $2...gee , if they did that to all the parts of the car, it would break the bank...tut tut.

Thank you Sam for your solution to this irritating problem. I was also only able to fit one grease nipple to my Nov. 2011 110 and I found that the grease oozed out around the bushing on that side until I wedged a fine screw driver blade behind the other bush to create a better seal. Now the grease has penetrated all the way through. I also pressed in some Rocol anti seize into the springs and contact points. All is nice and quiet at the moment. Hope that it lasts.

Damnit, after a 500km trip, still ******* creaking

I might take the whole assembly apart and clean/inspect, but a little put off by having to bleed the clutch system - is this hard to do?

Will I need any supplies (other than fluid) to do this?

Sam,

Starting to think a louder sound system might be an easier option... :D

My other half complains about the creaky squeak, but I think I just got used to it. I have listen out for it to hear what she's on about and it comes and goes sort of randomly in any case.

Good luck with your continued hunt!

Cheers,

Lou

Man travelled to the moon!

Surely an operational clutch pedal should not be beyond our grasp?!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Samblers

Damnit, after a 500km trip, still ******* creaking

I might take the whole assembly apart and clean/inspect, but a little put off by having to bleed the clutch system - is this hard to do?

Will I need any supplies (other than fluid) to do this?

---

Hey Sam, great to see that your still trying to find a solution.

The clutch is pretty straight forward to bleed.
The official way is below. But you can either pull the new fluid through from the reservoir or you can reverse bleed it. Using something like this;NEW Hand Held Brake Bleeder Vacuum Pressure Tester Pump Brake Bleeding KIT | eBay

I picked up one of these awhile back to do my brakes and it works a treat.
The advantage of reverse bleeding, is you're pushing the air up and out through the reservoir, the way it naturally wants to travel. Just make sure the reservoir is empty.
The slave cylinder is a concentric bearing type on the puma and is inside the bell housing. You should see a black plastic unit with a bleed nipple on it, on the gearbox bell housing.

Good tutorial here. [ame]http://youtu.be/4-XjNLm7358[/ame]

Keep up the good work Sam, I've given up on my squeaky box, :wallbash: for now. It's not too bad, but on longer trips as the heat builds up it gets progressively worse.

Cheers, Ian.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/02/928.jpg

Thanks for that Ian, appreciated.

Yeah it's been hot here in WA for the last week and squeak noticeably worse... something must be expanding a little in there

Am I asking too much of my truck?