Defender td5 130 clutch

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Originally Posted by nedflanders

Back on topic rather than trading personal insults, I do think that chaining your car to a tree and driving may be good for a tractor but a Land Rover is going to suffer more damage than a clutch would cost, factor in a dual mass flywheel as well as that's probably well shot after all the shock loading, it' just not designed for that sort of abuse. There is a kit from the UK that converts it to a solid flywheel that may be worth considering :)

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What are the pros and cons of a non std flywheel for a Defender?

A solid flywheel is going to be stronger with less to go wrong but there are reports of a rattle at idle from the friction plate springs, dual mass flywheels were fitted to smooth out engine vibrations but they do fail, they're basically two plates connected by springs, tieing a chain round a tree to free off a stuck friction plate could cause damage somewhere. Its recommended any clutch change on the TD5 the flywheel is also replaced, not sure on Australian price but they're £250 plus shipping for the dual mass flywheel alone.

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Originally Posted by nedflanders

A solid flywheel is going to be stronger with less to go wrong but there are reports of a rattle at idle from the friction plate springs, dual mass flywheels were fitted to smooth out engine vibrations but they do fail, they're basically two plates connected by springs, tieing a chain round a tree to free off a stuck friction plate could cause damage somewhere. Its recommended any clutch change on the TD5 the flywheel is also replaced, not sure on Australian price but they're £250 plus shipping for the dual mass flywheel alone.

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I have a solid flywheel in my TD5 110. Yes the rattle is there at tickover when your foot is not on the clutch, but it isn't loud and certainly wouldn't stop me putting another one in.

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OK - a final update for those that are interested.....

1. Squirted some water on to the top of the clutch to flush out the brake fluid.
2. Let the truck sit there for a fortnight.
3. Hooked up the chain again to the tree and drove off.
4. Clutch released with a bang.
5. Clutch id now working as per normal

.... goes to show that the brake/clutch workshop really did know what they were doing.......

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Originally Posted by Daniel

OK - a final update for those that are interested.....

1. Squirted some water on to the top of the clutch to flush out the brake fluid.
2. Let the truck sit there for a fortnight.
3. Hooked up the chain again to the tree and drove off.
4. Clutch released with a bang.
5. Clutch id now working as per normal

.... goes to show that the brake/clutch workshop really did know what they were doing.......

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Well done congrats it worked :D .
Sometimes bush mechanics can and do work :angel:

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Originally Posted by rangieman

Well done congrats it worked :D .
Sometimes bush mechanics can and do work :angel:

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Did you ask these bush mechanics what effect this would have on your flywheel, good luck hope it lasts, when you get that shudder in 1st pulling away you'll know its time for flywheel/clutch.

Yeah OK thanks - that's an interesting symptom to look out for - we run 4 td5 engined LRs around the paddocks with between 140k and 350k kms and none of them have any shuddering when letting out the clutch. We work them hard even pulling out bogged 5 tonne 4wd tractors at times. Actually come to think of it I have never had to change a clutch in any vehicle I have owned although in the last few years I have left the old manual transmissions where they belong - on farm trucks.