Reply With QuoteI would suspect the Spigot Bush has seized.
and its box out do it properly.
Master
The clutch on my newly acquired td5 130 was normal.
Then it lost fluid so I replaced both master and slave cylinders.
All OK again although I had trouble getting rid of all the air but came good eventually.
I then parked it for a fortnight.
Got in started it and had no clutch release although had a firm pedal.
Got it going by starting in Lo range 1st and then increasing speed and up through gears not using clutch.
Then drove with clutch pedal depressed and brake on hard - large thud and clutch action back to normal.
Parked it for another fortnight and now cannot get clutch to release no matter what I do!!!!!
I assume that the clutch disc/plate have glued onto the flywheel?? perhaps with split fluid from the slave cylinder leaking????
What can I do??? perhaps fill the clutch housing with diesel or something? - or do I have to take the g/box out and do it properly???
Any and all suggestions appreciated.
ChatterBox
I would suspect the Spigot Bush has seized.
and its box out do it properly.
Master
Thanks for your suggestion.Originally Posted by strangy
"spigot bush" - I would have thought that a 2000 td5 defender would have a spigot bearing rather than a bush. And if the bearing has siezed then the gearbox input shaft would spin inside the bearing long before it would drive the truck with the brakes fully applied.
waiting for more suggestions please.
Swaggie
Soo can you push the clutch in and select first..or is it and cannot select first??
Master
Thanks for your interest - I can push the clutch pedal and it feels normal however there is no declutching action.
The clutch is locked/engaged at all times as described in my initial post.
Master
Definitely sounds like the friction plate has stuck to the flywheel somehow. Any proper repair is a box off job I guess. Need to do mine soon as my flywheel is on its way out
Master
SubscriberIf the fluid has contaminated the lining I suppose it's possible that it's rusted it self together - Personally I would try to get it to separate again, and then drive it as much as possible for a few weeks. With lots of low speed clutch action to get some heat into the lining. I don't think the TD5 flywheel takes well to too much heat and will develop hot spots easily, so just a good deal of driving might wear off the damaged clutch surface.
When you do get it separated - you may be able to prop the clutch into the engaged position with some sort of wooden stick, that might reduce the chances of another stuck even until it clear itself out.
Diesel in the clutch is a bad thing, and will root the clutch lining and dissolve the grease out of the release bearing. Perhaps a judicious squirt of Isopropynol Alcohol cleaner through the drain plug would flush the clutch fluid out.
TopicToaster
You would be wrong. They still have a bush
Master
OK thanks - being a bush makes it even less likely to sieze and act as if the clutch is locked up.
Master
Thanks for the suggestions thus far.
I found that the clutch housing had about 1 litre of brake/clutch fluid in it - nice and black from corroding steel. I'll put about 2 litres of brake cleaner into the clutch housing and drive till hot to make sure it gets into every nook and cranny.
The advice from a brake & clutch workshop is this -- "make sure your bull bar is strong and drive it into a tree - this will free up the clutch disc".
My bull bar isn't that strong so initially I will hook up a strong chain to a tree and drive off in 2nd high range.
I will keep you updated as to progress.
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