wheel brace

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Originally Posted by n plus one

And remember never to lubricate threads when using a torque wrench - you'll get false readings (unless the manual specs are for lubed threads).

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While I agree in theory, specified torque settings are for threads in good condition and nice and clean.
On a 4wd that gets used offroad its practically impossible to maintain thread condition unless you lube them with something to prevent them rusting.

IMO, the danger with using a torque wrench on less than perfect threads is that they will usually end up under-torqued.
I've seen quite a few "torqued up dry" wheel nuts come loose, and when you do them by hand you know why. They quickly go from zero to full torque and you know they are binding/sticking and not actually putting the required tension on the threads.

Although I have torque wrenches, I've never used them on landy wheel nuts. My method is grease them, tighten by hand, and check regularly.

Back to the original post though, the wheel brace that came with my 1985 County had the 2 halves welded together. Suggest you do the same and just go easy on the tightening..
As others have said, most likely paint is your current issue.

Steve

I had one of those in the old 93 disco,like its made for left hand threaded nuts.great for undoing but noy doing up as it was to short.Actually i probably pinched it from the county

Hi Dean , can I give you a tip . Keep your wheel studs lightly coated with grease . If you don't have one buy your self a nice 1/2 drive breaker bar they don't cost a fortune and will last you years and years , also buy a socket that fits your wheel nuts I think they are 1.1/4 I have had mine for over 30 years ,there will be a metric socket , someone on here will tell you the size , I know there is a torque setting , I have never used one on wheel nuts , I have owned many Land Rovers over the last 40 years and never had a wheel come off . You get to know when a nut is tight enough , don't be frightened you can do them up tight without jumping on them . I hope this helps . jimr1:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by n plus one

And remember never to lubricate threads when using a torque wrench - you'll get false readings (unless the manual specs are for lubed threads).

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As far as I know, all torque specs are for lubricated threads, even if this is not specified - friction from unlubricated threads is totally unpredictable.

John

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

As far as I know, all torque specs are for lubricated threads, even if this is not specified - friction from unlubricated threads is totally unpredictable.

John

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In my experience, the opposite is almost always the case ie a dry torque figure. Lubricants have differing friction effects too, so you'd need to spec lube type as well.

A wire brush, a bit of rag and some brake cleaner will get your threads nice and clean.

Having said that, it's not like Deefer wheels studs are a particularly tension sensitive bolt in the big scheme of things...

also buy a socket that fits your wheel nuts I think they are 1.1/4 I have had mine for over 30 years ,there will be a metric socket , someone on here will tell you the size ,



On my 85 county the metric size is 27mm, it came with a half inch drive 5/8-W impact socket that fits nicely too. I'm assuming that they are the original wheel nuts.

Oops, did something wrong with the quote above, top line above from jimr1's post higher up the page.

Recently I had the wheels rotated and balanced by Diffens in Joondalup and found the vehicle was shaking when at about 95kph. Back I went and they rebalanced the rears only as there was no vibrations through the steering wheel.
Then when down at Callcup the other weekend I noticed some nuts had been really badly trashed as if the rattle gun had been forced on before it was stopped.
Back to Diffs and the boss gave me a cheque for 3 new nuts to replace the worst ones.
When I attempted to remove the nuts I bent the LR spanner they were so tight. Back to Diffs and (this is actually the second time I've had to go back there for nuts being too tight to undo) they immediately removed all nuts and re-torqued them by hand.
Apparently the yob that stuffed it up is now an ex employee....
That's the last time I go there as it's just not good enough, what if we'd been in the bush somewhere and needed to remove a wheel? They can't always blame new staff, maybe they should try some training not just shove a rattle gun in their hands and leave them to it.
AlanH.

Wheel nut size for Series 3 and 90/110/Defender is 27mm. (1 1/8" I think fits)

John

Hi Alan , I was with a mate years ago and the same happened to him , his wheels had been put on with a rattle gun , Went to change a wheel with the Land Rover wheel brace , we could not get the wheel nuts undone , we're both plumbers and know what tight nuts can be like , the brace was twisting even with a tube run down the shaft , So there were two things against us , Nuts to tight , poor quality wheel brace , we both learned a lesson that day good quality breaker bar , and socket plus keep control of your own wheel nuts .:)