Thread: Fitting a second single DIN in a pre-97 Defender ?

I have two in an overhead console.. Works well.

The mud console will accommodate 2 single DIN units so long as you cut down into the dash deep enough. You will have ample space in the middle of the console for a bank of carling switches. I fitted the console to my truck a few weeks back. the console makes working on the wiring easy too. Remove the console and everything behind it is exposed.

No photos at hand. I'll take some if i remember tonight.

MLD

pitcha ?

Thanks MLD. It takes 2 full depth DIN units AND the Carlings? Thats more than the Raptor takes !

My concern with the MUD is I dont know how to actually mount the radios solidly so that the MUD console thingy doesnt get destroyed



By the way does anyone knwo what the depth of teh standard Eurovox cassete deck is? The ICOM is about 17cm deep.

pushy B....d

as promised/demanded.

mounted as i see it.



with a single DIN mounting frame in the location of the lower space. the space above the carling switches is about 4mm. The gap between the switch bank and the single DIN mount is about 5mm. I had planned on putting the UHF there until i bought the 130 and all those little plans are on hold.



If you go the mud console route the plans tell you to cut a vertical line down to the bottom of the old cig lighter hole because it avoids the thicker tin below that point. I cut down deeper than recommended which requires cutting the double skin tin. Easy job with a dremel. It also gives you the extra 5 to 6 mm to fit the second single DIN. It's an easy modification. The only mistake i made was getting the console to line up with the holes for the fixing screws. Not so much a problem with the left hand side, the right is a PITA because the dash is in the way to drill another hole without taking the console out again.

MLD

Thank You I appreciate it.

For the DIN mounting frame, especially the upper angled one, how does one secure the frame so that the radio is solidly held and doesn't place weight on the MUD console itself to avoid cracking it.... ?

The console plastic is about 3 mm.

There is no bracing to which you can reinforce the mounting frame in the console. You could knock something up. It wouldn't be hard to get a thin bit of tin and attach it to the bulkhead and to the frame.

If you look at the second pic of the DIN frame, i bent out the butterfly wings to secure the frame to the console surface on the rear side of the console. It seems sufficient to hold it all in place. I installed mine only about 6 weeks ago and it's only seen one 4wd day so no long term feedback and whether the console will flex and break over time, i can't assist.

The DIN in the lower section would be supported by the flat section of the dash immediately below it.

Word of warning, if you go the mud console route the cutting of the dash renders you committed unless you want to source a replacement facia and bits and bobs of the dash.

It is a neat, convenient and attractive way to organise your dash. I previously had different types of switches, wires oozing out the sides, nothing was easy to get to and if i needed to do something behind the dash i spent more time untangling wires than the modification. The console gave me a reason to start afresh.

MLD

Cutting the dash worries me not at all. But this time I'll do it with a dremel rather than an angle grinder....

At least the MUD pod allows some vent to be still usable on the drivers side, unlike the Raptor dash.