Lift Kit Requirements to fit 255/85's

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Originally Posted by defrover

Thanks drover your info has been extremely helpful. I guess I am a little cautious as I know all about the consequences of lifting a vehicle. My last car ended up with a 6inch lift and needed a hell of a lot to get it driving ok to say the least (jeep Cherokees don't lift well) it's funny how land rover spend bulk money on engineers to get the setup right from factory and then we come along and mess with it and expect everything to sweeeet...

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I'd suggest that to get a two inch lift full sorted on a Puma you'll need:

The right springs and shocks (not opening up that can of worms!)
A DC prop.
Swaybars spacers (or removal).
Some form of castor correction (slotted swivels, bushes, radius arms).
Cranked trailing arms (or angled bushes).

FWIW my rims are ET10 (which means they have a positive 10mm offset i.e. they each sit 23mm further out than the standard Boost rims or ~ 10mm further out than Sawtooths) and I have no rubbing issues at all with 255/85s AND my 50mm lift does not (at least by design) limit the upward travel of my axles.

The comparison is 235 on stock 5.5 rim versus 255 on wolfs. The inside of the 255 will sit out a bit further. If your 235s are hitting the perches on wolfs, there is something seriously wrong with your truck.

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Originally Posted by Red90

The comparison is 235 on stock 5.5 rim versus 255 on wolfs. The inside of the 255 will sit out a bit further. If your 235s are hitting the perches on wolfs, there is something seriously wrong with your truck.

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ok, so what should I be looking for? Id like to fix it before it gets worse :(

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Originally Posted by uninformed

ok, so what should I be looking for? Id like to fix it before it gets worse :(

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Just wondering if only one side is touching , or both the same?

Unsprung weight , now that's funny. ( on a truck )
Ever had a look at how much unsprung weight there is with a live axle set up.
As for the original question, the 255 will be approx. 10mm wider each way and 17 mm taller ( not much difference on a truck )

FWIW, I just went and measured my original 110 5.5w rims next to my 130 6.5w rims.

From the WMS to the inside lip was:

110 = 120~121mm
130 = 116~117mm

So at most a 5mm difference from WMS to inside lip. Looking at both rims, there is a material thickness difference (slightly thicker on the 130) and no noticable difference in the rolled edge that the tyre bead mounts against. To me I would say little to no difference and if anything the slightly thicker material puts the 130 that mm closer to the 110

Now as Red90 says that extra inch is pretty much all out board. BUT, the inside lip is pretty much the same give or take a few mm. Now I can tell you that a 235 mounted to a 5.5 will have a narrower profile in relation to its spec'd size than a 255 on a 6.5.

So a 255 on the 130 6.5w rim is going to have the inside of it near as close to a 235 on the 110 5.5w rim.

Now I guess the argument could be made that the 130 rim is not infact the Wolf rim... but since pretty much every one here refers to the 130 rim AS the wolf rim, I guess we can leave it there.

Yes that is what I was getting at. These are my measurements. http://www.red90.ca/rovers/roverwheels.html

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Originally Posted by Red90

Yes that is what I was getting at. These are my measurements. Land Rover Wheel Specification

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meh, even with your measurements (in your favour) a 255 on a 6.5 will be the same inside point as a 235 on a 5.5...

I double checked and my Genuine LR 5.5 is definitely 120mm from WMS to inside lip as per your cross section.

BTW, im not the first person to report rubbing of rear spring perches on the rear of 110/130 on stock rims.

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Originally Posted by uninformed

meh, even with your measurements (in your favour) a 255 on a 6.5 will be the same inside point as a 235 on a 5.5...

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Exactly... THAT is my point. That is why they won't rub on the perches. That and all of the people with 110s, Wolfs and 255s that have no problems.

Spring perch rubbing is a problem with people that try and run Disco or RR rims on a 110. Those wheels have 1/2" to 3/4" more backspacing and with the 7" rear springs on a 110, you rub.

Your talk of lifts and taller tyres does not influence this. The axle moves up and down and the tyre goes past the closest point of the perch at some point, stock or lifted.

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Originally Posted by Red90

Your talk of lifts and taller tyres does not influence this. The axle moves up and down and the tyre goes past the closest point of the perch at some point, stock or lifted.

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While I don't know if Wolfs have sufficient offset for 255/85s to clear the spring perches, the axle doesn't just move up and down it also rotates around its axis point under articulation - which, in my experience, is when you really find out if you have sufficiently offset wheels.