I need to make an injection pump locking tool

I'd be careful with doing that, the screw might be set right and the androids settings may be completely wrong. Or the pin that is driven by the android may also be stuck.

I would suggest as your first port of call finding out and making sure you understand how messing with the aneroid settings works, then back that off to the minimum settings and checking that it's not a case of somebthing keeping the android stuck in the full boost position while your having a look see and setting it back to minimum.

If it's working properly them the fault is most likely bad timing (late injection) and too much fuel. You night also find that the engine isn't breathi g properly until the turbo winds in. Which means you could have bent push rods a badly adjusted set of valves (won't be the first time I've seen a lash cap crack apart giving a valve clearance you could measure with a screwdriver instead of a deeper gauge) or even a collapses air filter

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

I'd be careful with doing that, the screw might be set right and the androids settings may be completely wrong. Or the pin that is driven by the android may also be stuck.

I would suggest as your first port of call finding out and making sure you understand how messing with the aneroid settings works, then back that off to the minimum settings and checking that it's not a case of somebthing keeping the android stuck in the full boost position while your having a look see and setting it back to minimum.

If it's working properly them the fault is most likely bad timing (late injection) and too much fuel. You night also find that the engine isn't breathi g properly until the turbo winds in. Which means you could have bent push rods a badly adjusted set of valves (won't be the first time I've seen a lash cap crack apart giving a valve clearance you could measure with a screwdriver instead of a deeper gauge) or even a collapses air filter

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1. It's not likely a breathing issue - all the pushrods are fine (I pulled them out two weekends ago when I was checking the stem seals), and the valves are set to spec (this was one of the first things I checked when starting to try and diagnose the heavy smoke); I haven't checked the air filter but I'll turn it over less the filter and see if the smoke decreases.

2. I'll ask the pump guy if he's fiddled with the aneroid unit. If he has then I'll follow up on your lead (read up on how to set it back to "original" spec). If he hasn't, I'll mark the max fuel screw, loosen the lock nut and turn it back 1/2 turn at a time to see what happens with the smoke, keeping close track of the number of half-turns made. If no improvement then it would be a simple matter to set it back to "ol-smokey".

what work did he do on the pump?

Its exceedingly impossible to rebuild one of those pumps without messing up the settings for the engine its currently bolted to.

they can only be set to a basic spec but then require tuning to the specific engine. For example it may be a case of hes set it up to work on say a 3l volvo engine and not a 2.5l landrover one

not doubting your ability but If I had a dollar for every time something blindingly obvious had been missed and thousands of dollars worth of effort and parts had gone down the tube becasue everyone had assumed the simple stuff was already done and out of the way.....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

what work did he do on the pump?

Its exceedingly impossible to rebuild one of those pumps without messing up the settings for the engine its currently bolted to.

they can only be set to a basic spec but then require tuning to the specific engine. For example it may be a case of hes set it up to work on say a 3l volvo engine and not a 2.5l landrover one

not doubting your ability but If I had a dollar for every time something blindingly obvious had been missed and thousands of dollars worth of effort and parts had gone down the tube becasue everyone had assumed the simple stuff was already done and out of the way.....

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Point taken, Dave.

I re-read Ian Petersen's "Land Rover TDI Injectin Pump Tuning" article, and I take your point that the stroke pin or some such has "stuck" the aneroid cone in the fuel-rich position, which would cause excessive smoke at off-boost engine speeds. So I plan to remove the four screws and the boost compensator cover, mark the diaphram reference point, gently turn and remove the diaphragm and cone, and see if the stroke pin moves freely by pulling on the throttle cable. If it doesn't that could be the cause of the smoke, as you suggested; which, if that is the case, raises another issue - how to free up the pin, as the tear-down articles that I've found don't cover the aneroid module. But let's take one problem at a time....