285/70 R16s on a puma 90?

In the soft stuff (mud and sand) narrower tyres are better than wide tyres with the same ground footprint. A simplistic illustration of this is comparing pushing a bicycle with normal skinny wheels/tyres across the sand, to pushing one with wheels/tyres like a rolling pin. It is the length of the footprint that is important and this increases more with airing-down of skinny tyres. In sand, lugs are not as important as in mud where they are 'useful' in gripping the firmer stuff under the sludge.

In my 2010 D90, I normally run at 30-32 psi on the tarmac and formed dirt roads. In the soft stuff I drop to 18 psi as a first step. I rarely need to go lower.

Driving technique is VERY important. It is rare that any driver is as capable as their Defender! Can I suggest you drop your pressures, go up a gear (ie lower your revs), and increase your momentum, and see how that goes (using your standard tyres). Experiment a little. Your D90 should easily out perform the opposition. Be mindful that in some circumstances the wheelbase of the D90 is an asset, in others a longer wheelbase can be better. Also, the approach to a difficult section my need to be different.

Cheers
KarlB
:)

I just typed a freaking massive reply Karl and stupid IE decided not to post it GRR!

anyway, short of my reply was, 'thanks' and I think my descision now will be between 235's and 255's and what brand (leaning towards the Coopers AT )

I still have 10,000kms to make my mind up though :)

Leroy

side questions, would 255's play with my gearing too much for towing a trailer apose to the 235's? or being that is the 90 it wont be as big a deal as if it was a 130?

thanks.

I replaced my original General Grabbers with Goodyear Wrangler MT/R Kevlar tyres. They are expensive but very good, except that they are wearing out too quickly. I stuck with the standard size as I find it more than adequate. The size is readily available. And no potential impact on my warranty if any problems with the drive train. Next set? Certainly stick with 235/85R16s and probably Michelin 4x4 (XZL) or BFG Mud Terrain.

I will leave the gearing issue to someone else but would add that while we may poke fun and express dismay at the foibles of our Defenders, Land Rover engineers are responsible for the best 4x4xFar!

Cheers
KarlB
:)

Our 90 NAS with 285/75 R16 in OME +2" suspension. Only a small turn radio loss...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/04/960.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Leroy_Riding

I just typed a freaking massive reply Karl and stupid IE decided not to post it GRR!

anyway, short of my reply was, 'thanks' and I think my descision now will be between 235's and 255's and what brand (leaning towards the Coopers AT )

I still have 10,000kms to make my mind up though :)

Leroy

side questions, would 255's play with my gearing too much for towing a trailer apose to the 235's? or being that is the 90 it wont be as big a deal as if it was a 130?

thanks.

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Gearing will be fine - I've towed 1.5t with my 110 at GVM on 255s, no issues. A 90 will be lighter and you can easily tweak it later for a few extra herbs if you feel the need...

KarlB hits the nail on the head... Momentum is your friend.

Wheelspin is caused by torque. The lower the gear, the greater the torque... In soft/slippery stuff, use a higher gear.

Skinny tyres 'bite' into the ground and let you dig down to the firm base, under the squidgy surface layer.

Personally, I'd avoid wide tyres, especially if your reasoning is 'they look good'!!!

M

Quote:

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Originally Posted by camel_landy

KarlB hits the nail on the head... Momentum is your friend.

Wheelspin is caused by torque. The lower the gear, the greater the torque... In soft/slippery stuff, use a higher gear.

Skinny tyres 'bite' into the ground and let you dig down to the firm base, under the squidgy surface layer.

Personally, I'd avoid wide tyres, especially if your reasoning is 'they look good'!!!

M

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I am generaly not a big fan of momentum, becuase for momentum usualy speed is required first, so I opt for crawl in crawl out, if I cant crawl on through it I 90% of the time go around, the other 10% I give it a second go a slightly higher speed but never fast, the one time I drove something a little faster to get through (no way around) I bent up my front fender when my wheel dropped into a ditch hidden in the mud and my bumper pushed the fender up creasing it, and I was only idling 3rd gear, low range! no throttle input at all.

my reasoning has never been 'they look good' my quetion was around them appearing to drive OVER what I drive THROUGH, no issue though. I will likely go with 255's for a little extra clearence and width without sacrificing too much economy and whatnot.

Thanks
Leroy

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Leroy_Riding

I am generaly not a big fan of momentum, becuase for momentum usualy speed is required first, so I opt for crawl in crawl out, if I cant crawl on through it I 90% of the time go around, the other 10% I give it a second go a slightly higher speed but never fast, the one time I drove something a little faster to get through (no way around) I bent up my front fender when my wheel dropped into a ditch hidden in the mud and my bumper pushed the fender up creasing it, and I was only idling 3rd gear, low range! no throttle input at all.

my reasoning has never been 'they look good' my quetion was around them appearing to drive OVER what I drive THROUGH, no issue though. I will likely go with 255's for a little extra clearence and width without sacrificing too much economy and whatnot.

Thanks
Leroy

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Appreciate if you could give some follow up on what 255s you get and how you rate them - I've got the ****s with my KM2s...

Will do, Im looking at the Coopers AT's but not sure if they come in the 255 or not, but have told they do.

Leroy

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Leroy_Riding

Will do, Im looking at the Coopers AT's but not sure if they come in the 255 or not, but have told they do.

Leroy

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Would recommend stretching to BFG MT KM2s... For the 255...

Leave the "bloopers" alone :wasntme: