is someon using dual rear shocks in his 110?

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Originally Posted by Ranga

I



I guess the only other possible advantage I've considered with dual shocks is redundancy. In the event one fails, you have another already in place. On the other hand, it might make diagnosing a failed shock difficult. :confused:



I'm still yet to be convinced dual shocks are required items, particularly if running quality shocks in good condition.



Hope this helps.

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as I understand it if you have dual shocks they would be differently valves so would not really be a proper replacement in place

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Originally Posted by uninformed

4x Ranchos each corner....


your welcom :D

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Good call !




:bat::p

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Originally Posted by Steve223

as I understand it if you have dual shocks they would be differently valves so would not really be a proper replacement in place

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Still likely to be substantially better than nothing though?

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Originally Posted by n plus one

Still likely to be substantially better than nothing though?

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my nothing would be a spare front and rear shock for long trips though

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Originally Posted by Steve223

my nothing would be a spare front and rear shock for long trips though

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Fair call.

Well I had a good chat today with the Guy's from KONI.

By the end of the chat, the conclusion is as follows...

Apparently Raid's should never be set to the maximum hard setting. The full hard setting is to be used as the shocks deteriorate to maintain their ability to damp. The best advice is to return them to the softest setting.

With the Raid's set too high they impair the ability of the spring to return to its full height in a timely manner. The effect that I am experiencing is that simpley by the time I arrive at the next "whoop-d-doo" the spring has yet to reach full extension, causing a heavy entry into the hole and a rigid exit.

By returning the Raids to the full soft setting it will/should eliminate this effect.

So I have returned them to full soft but yet to test drive, but the theory sounds solid.

Thoughts and opinions welcome.

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Originally Posted by Drover

Well I had a good chat today with the Guy's from KONI.

By the end of the chat, the conclusion is as follows...

Apparently Raid's should never be set to the maximum hard setting. The full hard setting is to be used as the shocks deteriorate to maintain their ability to damp. The best advice is to return them to the softest setting.

With the Raid's set too high they impair the ability of the spring to return to its full height in a timely manner. The effect that I am experiencing is that simpley by the time I arrive at the next "whoop-d-doo" the spring has yet to reach full extension, causing a heavy entry into the hole and a rigid exit.

By returning the Raids to the full soft setting it will/should eliminate this effect.

So I have returned them to full soft but yet to test drive, but the theory sounds solid.

Thoughts and opinions welcome.

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Depends entirely on the spring rate.

And doing what your describing is called 'jacking down' and the only time I've ever approached that was in a race car once with so much low speed rebound on the rear dampers I would lift the back wheels off the track under braking.

Thanks Rick,

How would the spring rate change this effect ?

Would it not be the stronger the spring the quicker it would/could reach full extension and weaker the spring the slower it could return.

My rear springs are TF heavy duty, rated at 420lb's if that makes sense....

The Koni guy spoke about shock mounts being torn off as the Raids were wound up to far.

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Originally Posted by Drover

Thanks Rick,

How would the spring rate change this effect ?

Would it not be the stronger the spring the quicker it would/could reach full extension and weaker the spring the slower it could return.

My rear springs are TF heavy duty, rated at 420lb's if that makes sense....

The Koni guy spoke about shock mounts being torn off as the Raids were wound up to far.

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Rebound damping damps a spring's return to its full length (I.e. it's rebound) - a firmer spring needs more rebound damping to control it's return rate. Excess rebound can cause spring pack by preventing the spring from fully re extending before it hits the next bump - kind of a ratcheting effect - but, as already noted, it's rare and tends to be a high speed stutters (think moto x) style issue.

FWIW, I've found that my 110 starts to feel low on rebound damping if/when I get too aggressive with lowering my tyre pressures - basically because the tyre starts to act a lot like an under-damped spring - could this be your issue?