Puma immobilised. problem solved (Blown fuse)

Can you lock and unlock the car???

If you can unlock the car open the door, then shut the door and then lock it again and then leave the car for 30mins (to be safe) then unlock and try and start.

if you have left the car unlocked for a length of time they do have a habit of immobilising themselves...the more you try the more it locks the car out.

I had this happen to me had all the usual things done battery disconnect you name it had it towed to the dealer and the bloody thing started on the back of the flat bed at the other end and they drove it off......

This was on my driveway so there was no interference issues...we actaully ended up having the imobiliser replaced as it was too sensitive and kept doing it...never had an issue after that...

a number of people on this forum have had the same issues and I think the people that have, have all owned early defenders like yourself

the unlocking, locking process usually works so hopefully it will work for you (but I'm not sure whether entering a new code changes anything)


Im also assuming your not carrying your second Fob we also found if you have both fobs in the car they some how manage to cancel each other out and also immobilise the car...dont ask me how or why but it does

It lives!! Thanks for the replies, unfortunately it was the Pommy Defender 2 forum that had the answer, a blown 20amp fuse under the driver's seat. Apparently there are 3 different fuses that affect the alarm / immobiliser system, I had checked the one under the steering wheel but all the while I was sitting on the problem. Went back just now and went straight to this fuse, sure enough- blown. Replaced it and the alarm started beeping, used the remote to lock & unlock and now the car is trying to pretend that nothing ever happened.
All's well that ends well.
When my wife got home this arvo, she asked how my day was. I started to tell her how unbelievably bad my day had been, then I remembered the day last year when my dad died. Kind of put things back in perspective.;)

Great to hear you got it sorted, and thabks for letting us know what to look for :cool:

I will change the title and move to the defender section so it can be searched a little easier by other members

Quote:

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Originally Posted by POD

It lives!! Thanks for the replies, unfortunately it was the Pommy Defender 2 forum that had the answer, a blown 20amp fuse under the driver's seat. Apparently there are 3 different fuses that affect the alarm / immobiliser system, I had checked the one under the steering wheel but all the while I was sitting on the problem. Went back just now and went straight to this fuse, sure enough- blown. Replaced it and the alarm started beeping, used the remote to lock & unlock and now the car is trying to pretend that nothing ever happened.
All's well that ends well.
When my wife got home this arvo, she asked how my day was. I started to tell her how unbelievably bad my day had been, then I remembered the day last year when my dad died. Kind of put things back in perspective.;)

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Good to hear it is all go. The fuse under the seat will blow if the central lock actuator wires are pinched/cut where they go through the rubber conduit between the door and pillar
. Pretty common I have had 2 defenders do this. Jc

Quote:

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Originally Posted by justinc

Good to hear it is all go. The fuse under the seat will blow if the central lock actuator wires are pinched/cut where they go through the rubber conduit between the door and pillar
. Pretty common I have had 2 defenders do this. Jc

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The rear door opening extension brackets often cause this - the wiring is shorter than the rubber tubing suggests - so everything looks fine but you've actually separated the wires within the tubing. Trick for young players!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by n plus one

The rear door opening extension brackets often cause this - the wiring is shorter than the rubber tubing suggests - so everything looks fine but you've actually separated the wires within the tubing. Trick for young players!

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Correct! a good place to start when your CDL for either rear door isn't working, and if any of the front door electric windows cease to function check the corresponding door conduit for wire breakages.

JC

Thanks for the info Justin, I had not yet got as far as trying to see why the fuse had blown.

Can the immobilizer be disabled in the Computer.

In addition to the normal bayonet (?) fuses, should one carry the Mega fuses, and if so, what size?

cheers

Just wanted to say thanks - this post was the final step I needed to resolve my ongoing immobiliser issue which has resulted in a towing and my Landy sitting on the side of the road like a paperweight for week.

I saw the fuse was blown, traced the wiring and both the back doors had been mended by the previous owner, but the fix had gone too.

As soon as I rewired, and replaced the fuse and heard the double beep I knew I was on a winner. Nice one.

Now to source a second fob...

Keep up the good work!

M