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Pat, my car came from the Territory with the greased hubs, standard single lip seals and the hubs and bearings were buggered.
Its patch was Tennant Ck to the Alice and had 76,000km on it.
Water had gone past the seals and into the bearings. Corrosion everywhere.
But no oil leaks !
And don't forget to regularly grease your axle shaft to drive flange spline.
Dunno Rick,I've even gone as far as giving the bearings a bit more of a pinch as I thought the hubs are moving on the stubs but they still start to leak,I have changed the rear pads three times now from memory and none were worn out,just covered in oil,it has the 3511G seals on it now.I'll rip them off next week and see if the stubs are grooved,that will cause leaks,with 464K's on them they could be scored. PatQuote:
Originally Posted by rick130
It's totally different to the Tdi,my Tdi seat is worn to my bum shape so she fits like a glove,the Tdi has lag,mine has it bad as it desperately needs a tune,I don't use the clutch to change gear,I drive it like a dog box,it's smoother,the T/C as quite a bit of slop but it starts and runs everyday.The TDCi is tight,everything works,it pulls from almost any gear,hardly ever use first or second,doesn't like to rev,you need to get the gear that keeps the rev's above 1800 and below 2400 to get the best out of it,it turns very well,it has the quickest turn in of any car I've ever driven,it never missed a beat driven in near 60 degree outback temps,the corrigations have not rattled anything loose,it towed a 3T trailer from Kalgoorlie to Perth with total confidence but it has one problem with heat coming up through the floor,the floor gets quite warm.To get the best out of the TDCi takes driver input,forget about hills or loads or what ever,stay in a high gear and low rev's as much as possible,change up at 2200-2300 and change down ONLY when you drop to 1900,if you change down above that you engine brake and go slower,the problem I think people have.As far as how good it is,it's second only to my L322 Range Rover Td6 in the outback,both without question will do anything and go anywhere you want straight off the showroom floor,trouble is neither has the ''thing'' that makes the Tdi so Defenderish,if you get my drift. PatQuote:
Originally Posted by jimr1
Every 10K works for me. PatQuote:
Originally Posted by uninformed
Mine used to leak found a worn stub replaced it still leaked checked diff breather blocked solid in the banjo and the hose. Problem solved. Changed my disco over to oil lubed bearings in the rear the other day and when I took the drain plug out there was that much presure it blew it out of my fingers again blocked breather. Forget the grease if you are going anywhere near water crossings
I had to speedi sleeve one stub, it didn't look too bad and I tried running the seal on a fresh part of the surface but it still leaked (and I did a set of pads too)
Probably wouldn't been cheaper to fit a new/used stub axle, but none of them have leaked in 250,000km.
I fitted a new non genuine to the sals but I linished the old one in the lathe and it cleaned straight up with wet@dry and wd so I have it for a spare I haven't fitted a speedie sleeve in years how much are they now?Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
Have no idea, it was well over ten years ago !Quote:
Originally Posted by 460cixy
IF you're going to goto grease..
drill and tap the drive flange to suit a 3mm grub screw and then buy a rubber nosed grease gun adaptor.
when it comes time to grease up just unscrew the grubs, and pump in the grease, 2 shots per side is usually more than enough.
I would reccomend usuing turntable grease, that stuff in and of itself should just about be able to hold back the oil from the diff. even if you had no seals