Maybe a Rijidij rear wheel and jerry can holder?Quote:
Originally Posted by Toxic_Avenger
I have one to fit and it involves extending the rear light wiring.
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Maybe a Rijidij rear wheel and jerry can holder?Quote:
Originally Posted by Toxic_Avenger
I have one to fit and it involves extending the rear light wiring.
BINGO!Quote:
Originally Posted by filcar
You win >9000 internets!
Yesterday I did the wiring and disassembly of the interior trim to get at the rear of the lights. Also had to remove my rear LR genuine roof access ladder (which pains me, as I love it). I'll need to downgrade to a front runner half length unit to maintain roof access, or just use the jerry can mount and the spare as a ghetto-ladder :p
This afternoon, I removed the chassis bolts, and mounted up the bar, and torqued it down. Sika'd up the light covers too. I opted to use the Sika brand clear auto sealant, as the black stuff would probably show up too much where it oozes out the side when the light covers are clamped down.
So all in all, I've sunk maybe 5 hours into it, and probably 70% done. Just need to wire up the tail lights, mount them and sika the sockets in, then mount the swing away units. I've opted to solder and heat shrink rather than use the supplied cable joiner crimps, mainly because I'm a glutton for punishment (soldering out-of-position in the vehicle), secondly, I already have the equipment, and thirdly, it's a far more electrically sound way of making a join.
Also, I don't know what it is with this land rover though, but It always seems that I need to use multiples of the spanners I don't have! Who has 2x 16mm spanners anyway?! And don't get me started on 9/16". Pfffft!
Obligatory pic to prove it happened.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1450433295
Sounds like the attention to detail you put into all your work.
I have the same access ladder and was thinking along the same lines of a shorter front runner type, then I thought I have a nephew that's a welder, I'll just shorten the one I have and get him to weld on a bracket at the correct level. The front runner (around $220) and others I have seen all clamp to the gutter at the top so I would have two holes up there to fill anyway and this way it won't cost anything
Murray's instruction are very comprehensive, has it all gone to plan? Probably won't get on to mine until after the silly season but nice to be prepared for any wrinkles...
Now what can I get for 9000 internets?
So 9000 internets >> 1 dot matrix printer ?
So I thought I'd just need to plug the lights into the rijidij rear bar, sika it up and hang the carriers...
But how could I be so wrong. :o
I was looking at the mess of wires that come up into the cab, then poke back thru the same grommet they came thru, and thought "That'd be a good spot to run a cable for some power back here".
So I got cracking and made up another loom with some 7-core trailer cable, and a twin 6-gauge cable in a 16mm conduit. It runs alongside the existing LHS chassis cabling that supplies the tail lights, brake lights, demisters, trailer wiring etc.
One end goes into the battery box and will eventually hook up to the safety hub off a MIDI fuse, and the other end goes thru the existing hole behind the rear speakers. For now, it's just coiled wire that will sit idle until next time I have the batteries out. The old loom was picked apart, and the wires that were applicable to the tail lights were routed back down thru the jacking hole and into the rear bar.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1450514430
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1450514430
So now I have the potential to have power and switching in the rear panels of the vehicle- I'll probably put another fuse block there and try and integrate something like this into the panelling
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/12/363.jpg
After the wiring shennanigans were finished, I got back to the actual job of installing the rijidij gear.
Now Murray's instructions are top notch, but if there is a way to screw something up, I'll find it. In the process of making the wiring to my liking, I neglected to consider what wiring I'd need for the rear work light. At a future date, I'll need to pull a permanent 12V source from the rear power point, and also tap into the reversse light feed... which will inevitably involve me either breaking back into the sika'd rear light boxes, or undoing a significant portion of the loom I made :mad: No one said this land rover gig was going to be easy.
I probably have a few hours to go tomorrow, just need to plug in the rear RHS lights, screw them into the bar, and zip tie the cables for the work light and number plate lilght to the carriers so they are secure. Then I'll either drown my sorrows with hard liquor or man up and get the work light fixed. Most likely the former, as I'll need to get the measurements and dimensiond for the 12V feed in the rear.
Also, I seem to recall someone (loanranger I think?) mentioning that they had a hard time getting the dust cap on the tyre carrier.
I found a scrap of pipe which I put a very basic bevel on to match the bevel on the cap. 5 Whacks with the 4lb hammer and it was done. Gave it a spray of penetrating spray before the percussive maintenance, and all was good.
Bait tank, now there's a mod I hadntconsidered :D
That switch will be for the bilge pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyG
You know... for when it rains.
Given the volume of a 90 300gph with automatic float switch