Thread: Meet my 90, and share the adventure.

Or sloppy.

More progress today:


Stuffed my **** with more wires back up to the Ex-Box. Managed to re-wire the RBS and ACR switchgear no problems using the old loom, and cutting / shutting the old wiring with solder and heatshrink.

Also drilled / inserted some M5 nutserts to hold down the T-type fuse holder. I'm 90% confident that I'll never see the draw needed to blow that fuse unless there is a failure.

All buttoned up

For bonus points, I re-purposed one of the cable holding clips that land rover has put around the place. This serves to keep the small and fiddly wires that go into the **** out of harms way, and relatively neat and tidy.

The finished job- Now with less clutter!


Boring pic is boring

Also made an incision in the seat box mat to sit around the new wire entry. Might look into some double sided tape, or even some rivnuts and some extra fasteners to pull it back into place. It's been beaten up over the past week of me working around, and on it.

Still a lot of cleaning up to do in the car, currently there is crap everywhere.

A job for thru the week will be to wire in the air compressor switch. I have the ARB twin pump job. Buggered if I know where the wiring instructions went, but I haven't the foggiest how to wire it up, and the ARB website gives bugger all advice. I need to get it wired so that it does not utilise the 'isolator switch' that is used for the air lockers.

Any hints chaps?

That's better. Now it looks more like a Mondrian.

Do you think it would be worthwhile to put some insulation around that tie down bar, i could see myself having a welding moment.
But am in awe, am planning my feeble efforts over Xmas

Originally Posted by AndyG

Do you think it would be worthwhile to put some insulation around that tie down bar, i could see myself having a welding moment.
But am in awe, am planning my feeble efforts over Xmas

Thanks for your support!

Regarding arcing, the thought had crossed my mind. But looking into it, there is a heap of extra thick glue-lined heat shrink around the positive connections, and the negative parts are at the same potential as ground (tie down bolts to battery tray, tray bolts to body, body bolts to chassis, chassis is connected to negative battery terminal).

Arcing is still a possibility from a poorly placed spanner, but I'm confident there will be no issues with the terminals arcing between the tie down and the lugs.
I asked the question here, and long story short, arcing happens when high voltages are involved, and the distance for arc jumping in air at those voltages is some phenominally short distance- probably fractions of a millimeter. On the other hand, if there is a crash, then it will probably arc out anyway, but no amount of spacing will prevent that.
I think I'm safe for now, but will keep an eye on it.

I've got an assortment of battery terminal caps, but they might require some modification to make work, as the cable run is a bit 'artistic' for the standard cap design

The terminal posts are in a raised platform as well. I think it looks scarier than it is, but given that you have all that all that heat shrink it would't hurt. It might afford the battery top some protection against abrasion also.
Cheers, Billy.

Did this this afternoon.
Because I can.

Battery terminal caps


They are both a supple silicone rubber type material. The LHS one just slides back to get to the terminal post. The RHS has a cap that just press fits on top.
Buggered if I know how to insulate the remaining exposed positive terminal.

What's that rubber paint ?
I rally meant when you were moving the bar on off or a stray spanner, but truely have it covered now , no pun intended

Offhand do you happen to know the size of the large hole FR. in the battery box where the main cables exit, mine has no grommet, not sure if it ever did.

When you disconnect the batteries do you follow the LR procedure or just do it.