I had to do that for the rear of my 98 110. I was able to get some good second hand axles from M R Automotive after someone else had upgraded to HD axles. Just a thought if money is tight:)
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I had to do that for the rear of my 98 110. I was able to get some good second hand axles from M R Automotive after someone else had upgraded to HD axles. Just a thought if money is tight:)
Hi you have the recommendation for new shafts, how many kms did they do? 200,000?
I have a set of rear drive flanges and shafts in mint condition only done about 100,000k, I took them out when I fitted the maxi drive locker. My fronts still are almost perfect at 200,000kms. Weeds recommends going for oil filed hubs, it's a great idea no matter what type of new flanges and shafts you buy, it ensures your drive flanges and shafts are always well lubricated. There's plenty of info about that on the forum.
I would say on the back axle it was the easiest , and most beneficial modification I did to my car. I removed the back stub axles and took the seal out, and drilled and tapped ( 1/8" gas), the drive flange, ( dammed hard material). I can change the hub oil independently or check for water anytime I like. Can refill the hubs with a 25 m ml syringe, each hub has 60 mls in it. A home mechanic with vice and electric drill can do it. ( drill pres makes it easier but not essential) . 1/8" gas is common plug size available almost everywhere and cheap, carry a couple of spares in case you drop one and loose it . I never had a problem with the landrover rubber hub caps leaking oil, but recommend you always carry a couple of spares, I have had them dislodged by stick and branches in the bush, last time I got them they were $5 each i think. cheers.
Mine is at 78,000km and I need to replace my rear shafts. Could there be another issue?Quote:
Originally Posted by simmo
Sent from my ZTE T83 using AULRO mobile app
I don't know how long they should last. But I think 300,000 -400,000 should be a base line judging by the original front drive shafts on my car still in almost mint condition , (200K). Barring over torque or fatigue failure (unknown factor)
My back axle shafts you could still see the machining marks in them at 100,000 kms.
If they are allowed to run dry and "fret", they'll wear quickly. No mater what shaft and drive flange you buy it will wrecked if you don't look after the maintenance. The after market ones will last longer because of their superior metallurgy, but they cost 3x as much to replace.
If you don't have oil filled hubs, good maintenance of your drive shafts takes about 30 minutes every three months. ( assuming they are already clean and don't have metal particles from fretting and delamination. ). Just remove the rubber cap and put 1/2 teaspoon of grease in the cap and put it back on.
If they look dirty of dry you have to clean them first by removing the drive flange and cleaning the shaft splines and drive flange in side with petrol & an old toothbrush, and blow dry. Apply light coat of grease to both , put some grease in the rubber cup and put it back on.
For so little effort you can make your car more reliable and avoid replacing the shafts. My favorite grease for this use in Molybdenum di sulphide grease, it's grey stuff, but normal bearing HTB grease will be OK.
If you have oil filled hubs, an occasional drain and refill of the oil, maybe annually, or when you adjust the bearings will do. I have a full set for the rear axle somewhere at home in Brisbane if any one has need PM. good luck,
I don't know how long they should last. But I think 300,000 -400,000 should be a base line judging by the original front drive shafts on my car still in almost mint condition , (200K). Barring over torque or fatigue failure (unknown factor)
My back axle shafts you could still see the machining marks in them at 100,000 kms.
If they are allowed to run dry and "fret", they'll wear quickly. No mater what shaft and drive flange you buy it will wrecked if you don't look after the maintenance. The after market ones will last longer because of their superior metallurgy, but they cost 3x as much to replace.
If you don't have oil filled hubs, good maintenance of your drive shafts takes about 30 minutes every three months. ( assuming they are already clean and don't have metal particles from fretting and delamination. ). Just remove the rubber cap and put 1/2 teaspoon of grease in the cap and put it back on.
If they look dirty of dry you have to clean them first by removing the drive flange and cleaning the shaft splines and drive flange in side with petrol & an old toothbrush, and blow dry. Apply light coat of grease to both , put some grease in the rubber cup and put it back on.
For so little effort you can make your car more reliable and avoid replacing the shafts. My favorite grease for this use in Molybdenum di sulphide grease, it's grey stuff, but normal bearing HTB grease will be OK.
If you have oil filled hubs, an occasional drain and refill of the oil, maybe annually, or when you adjust the bearings will do. I have a full set for the rear axle somewhere at home in Brisbane if any one has need PM. good luck,
Pretty normal, the splines wear due to fretting-corrosion.Quote:
Originally Posted by technophile
Mine were totally gone at the same distance when I bought the vehicle. Maxi-Drive (now Hi-Tough) long spline axles and drive flanges replaced them and the hubs are oil lubed and no perceivable wear with another 240,000km on the 'new' axles/flanges.
The fix is as Simmo said.
What is the difference between a Maxi Drive drive flange and a Hi-Tough Engineering drive flange?Quote:
Originally Posted by redrovertdi
Simmo, they have done just under 200000, not bad I guess?
Hi Ted not too shabby :D
Those that have damaged shafts and flanges that need replacement below 100,000 k should be asking the service center about it.
A new set of Salisbury flanges and shafts would be is quoted at Rover spares online parts is 2 x $ 70 for the axles and 2 x $ 25 for the drive flanges , dam that's cheap. :) is that right? plus 2 hours work, say $500 all in, not bad?
For my benefit, what is the wearing part (or surface) in the axle?
What does "30-40% worn" mean?