Before I drop the gearbox.....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

With the slave cylinder removed, you should be able to see whether the fork is bent or punched through. May need a mirror and a small but powerful torch.

John

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This is difficult.....I had the same issue last year

The best result was using my iPhone and taking a pic up the hole......still hard to tell.

Either way it was my second push rod through the fork.

Does the pedal feel normal through the push and release cycle ?
What happened in the first place, why did you replace the hydraulic components ? you indicate that it wouldn't release before you changed the parts indicating that the problem may not be in the hydraulics. If the pedal feels normal then you may have a broken diaphragm/spring in the pressure plate. It wont feel normal with a broken fork.

I had similar symptoms with my Puma, where one of the clutch springs from the clutch plate ejected itself from the plate and got stuck between the pressure plate and clutch...would not disengage. Clutch pedal/hydraulics felt entirely normal in movement.

We could hear a rattle of the spring when started in neutral and clutch pedal out, but not with clutch engaged. However, in our case the spring was loose and not jammed tight. If jammed tight I doubt you would hear the rattle.

Have heard of other cases where a ball from the throw out bearing had jammed the clutch with similar results.

Chopper - yeah the pedal feels normal, pulled the slave off and the piston is moving when the pedal is depressed, so it seems everything is OK with the hydraulics.
Going back to the original problem - was driving to work and went to change gears, heard a horrible noise and the car shuddered, couldn't put it into gear. Pulled over, looked under the car and saw steam coming off the front diff. Limped the last 1km to work, got a flatbed to take it home and removed the front diff, pinion bearing was destroyed, so thought OK theres the problem. Replaced the front diff (many thanks to grappler for bringing it up to Perth from Margeret river) and went to take her for a test run - can't put it into gear with the engine running - hence my current problem.

I'm guessing I misdiagonised the original problem - something must be amiss with the clutch, which in turn may have caused the diff to fail (not sure if this is possible:confused:) or it may have been buggered already. Anyway, have decided to replace the clutch....sigh.

[QUOTE=Brid - clutch pedal out, but not with clutch engaged

pedal out is clutch engaged ,

If you can get the vehicle down to Mandurah,there is a fully equipped diy workshop hoist/trans jack etc to make the job easier!I can give you a hand.
Ring Syd 0408166073

Have you tried starting it up with the front prop off?

Jode - yeah tried it with the prop shaft off, still no joy, wouldn't go into gear. Resigned to the fact now that I will have to replace the clutch :(.

Eddy - thanks for the offer mate, car not really drivable at the moment so will have to attempt it in my shed. Will be picking up an engine hoist in the next day or so, and have plenty of slings, chains, come-alongs etc here at work, so hopefully I will have all the heavy lifting covered.

So far I have a new clutch kit (yet to arrive), a new heavy duty fork and slipper pads etc, spigot bush, new rear main seal - is there anything else I need or should replace while I am at it? Am planning on lowering the gearbox the access the clutch.... and don't want to have to do it again in a hurry

Thanks to everyone for their replies and advice so far, it really is a great resource we have here on this site.

I cannot see how the diff problem could have anything to do with the clutch.

As you seem to have concluded, it is box (or engine) out time. The actual problem will become apparent when it is out.

As I see it, there are several possibilities -

1. Clutch fork is damaged (common)
2. Release bearing or its sleeve is damaged (uncommon)
3. Clutch driven plate is warped or broken (rare)
4. Pressure plate is damaged (never seen one, but could happen)
5. Spigot bearing is dry and dragging or seized (not uncommon but usually very noisy for a long time before any other symptoms - may make parting the engine and box difficult)

John

Rear main seal goes on without gasket as the gasket is often the thing that fails. Use a good sealant and jack it on with studs and nuts. The form that it comes with is a slippery customer.