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To protect inside the chassis rails, get a few cans of fish oil or lanolin, and a length of stiff small diameter sprinkler tubing. block one end of tubing and poke lots of small holes in the blocked end of tubing (length ways) for 5cm or so, poke down chassis rail, attach open end to can and squirt as you slowly pull the hose back out. I used 2 cans per rail. bit stinky for a while though.
Fish oil, cats start chasing you car,
Lanolin, kiwis start chasing,.........:wasntme:
Dn't you guys have Dinitrol down there?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...2014/06/76.jpg
There is no right answer in this game
I was going to go down the Tecktyl 506 road, but given my skills, tools and time I will get a professional treatment all over, but$$'
Keeping it clean underneath is key
An annual touch up and repair for those knocks & scratches along the way.
Anything will be better than nothing!
And be paranoid about galvanic action
My armchair wisdom after reading many posts
It looks like a wax oil so similar to 506.Quote:
Originally Posted by ericvv
Most posts in this thread seem to be concentrating on treating the outside of the chassis.Quote:
Originally Posted by micksta1973
IME chassis and door frames rust from the inside out.
The mount of sand and dirt that can get inside the chassis is surprising.
Treating the outside of the chassis is purely cosmetic in most of AU since we don't put salt on the roads.
Simplest solution is to move inland!
John
Quote:
Originally Posted by rar110
It really isn't. Waxoil is what it says, a mineral oil based product with the accompanying smell, Dinitrol is quite different from that, and in my opinion very superior. Here in Europe both waxoil and Dinitrol have their fans, but if you make an effort to do a little search on defender2.net, you will notice that Dinitrol generally comes up tops. And of course, a proper Dinitrol treatment includes application to each and every last corner of the inside of the chassis rails, not just the outside visible parts...
It can be done with cans or a compressor at home, but frankly, ideally you find a real good professional who has all the necessary equipment and who follows the Dinitrol guidelines by the book, and does not take any shortcuts. They are sometimes like a needle in a haystack, but thread 2 and 3 below will show you that they do still exist.
Here are a few defender2.net threads links which explain it all:
DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Corrosion Prevention Guide!
DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Defender Hunter Edition
DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - DINITROL for BELGIANS recommendation
So is dinitrol!Quote:
Originally Posted by ericvv
I recommend you try lanotec. Unlike Waxoyl and Dinitrol which are petrochemical/crude oil based, Lanotec products use lanolin (sheep/wool oil) as a base.
I previously thought so too and you might be right. My one detailed experience of a rusted Landy was that beach going v8 county I bought off you years ago for parts. The chassis was fairly rusted on the outside particularly in the rear cross member. I cut the rear cross member off to fit a replacement. Inside the coating was in tack. I was pleasantly surprised.Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzurover
Every now and then a bit of paint comes off to reveal bits from the green machine. So it lives on in part. I originally painted the firewall green to match the colour too.