Defender wheel bearings

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Originally Posted by Phil HH

I found with my RRC that when the front wheel bearings are set up correctly as per the workshop manual with .004" end float, then there is perceptible wheel movement when cold, and none when hot. The local clutch and brake place machined the discs, and replaced the hubs with no play ("Did you set the bearings up correctly?" "Oh yes, of course."). When the hubs got hot they overheated something wicked and spewed oil.
Just thought that I'd make this observation and suggest that you check the book before you tighten them up snug.

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I disagree, I feel a taper roller bearing needs the tiniest bit of pre load.
The mid nineties Defender manual has a good set up procedure, I'd follow that.

Always set them up with pre load beginning with various Jeeps a very long time ago and never had a wheel bearing failure on any vehicle I've serviced.

Well packed bearings using very good high temp grease also goes a long way to a long life (if not using oil lubed bearings)

Same here,I never fit wheel bearings with clearance,I do them with the wheel on and spin them until I feel resistance and then back off the nut a touch. Pat

Certainly with the RRC the hubs have a higher temperature expansion rate than the tubes that they mount on. When the brake discs heat the hubs the extra expansion takes up the play.
The workshop manual states that end float "must be .002" to.004" ", both for the front and rear bearings. Disagree with that.


Pat, isn't backing the nut off giving clearance?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Phil HH

Certainly with the RRC the hubs have a higher temperature expansion rate than the tubes that they mount on. When the brake discs heat the hubs the extra expansion takes up the play.
The workshop manual states that end float "must be .002" to.004" ", both for the front and rear bearings. Disagree with that.


Pat, isn't backing the nut off giving clearance?

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And the pre fixed spacer Defender manual states to use 50Nm, back off 90* and then do up to 10Nm so there is no play and a tiny amount of pre-load.

As stated I've always used pre-load, whether it was a Jeep, Nissan, Toyota, Holden, Ford or a trailer and always had very, very good bearing life.

^ what he said. Pat

Same for the fronts on the Puma?

I have to have a look at them soon,rears are oiled.

I would advise doing this yourself as it is great way of learning what is going on down there. All you need outside of a basic tool kit is the 52mm box spanner.

I have changed out bearings on a campsite before and it wasn't too much of an issue. Allow about an hour each side for re-packing. If you are replacing wheel bearings then maybe 1.5 hours.

As others have said, I tighten the locknut up tight and then back off a little to allow the wheel to spin freely but with no lateral movement.

Once you have done it yourself once you will know it has been done correctly and more importantly that the lock nut has been hand tightened not with a windy gun! That one I did in the campsite had to be chiselled off :( since then I know that I have had all bearings replaced and I repack them once a year.

Bearings welding themselves to stub axles is not fun, I had that on my old 90. Look after them, they take a lot of punishment.

G

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Originally Posted by scarry

Same for the fronts on the Puma?

I have to have a look at them soon,rears are oiled.

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Paul, I think you'll find they are the same as for the TD5, a spacer and shim arrangement between the cones, where you just do the nut up to a specified tension.

Okay so the mechanic at the landy care centre is away on holidays and the cairns landrover specialists cant fit me in.
I can get the spairs though. Maybe I will tackel it myself after all.
Just need to find a place to do it now. Not sure the caravan park would be too keen on letting me do it there...

Have you pulled the axles and found out what the problem is?,they do have a habit of simply coming loose. Pat