Printable View
Rick, I'm struggling to picture how expanded foam sprayed to the inside face of the flaps would distort them. As far as I can work this out, the foam would need to expand against two fixed points to introduce stress, but as it would be sparyed against one side of the flap only there wouldn't be anything opposite to it to expand against. Or am I not following your idea...?Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jode
There's a big stiffening box along the length of the flaps, I was going to inject it there, but apparently the Defender flaps use a lighter gauge aluminium than the Series ones and I've been told even distort a little if you use the Series rubber seals.
yeah they are flimsy, Ive added chequer plate to the front of mine so that they dont bend up over time even under the pressure of new seals. Flimsy is an understatement actually. They are tin foil.
While noting the thread is 2 years on, I had great success with an engine blanket from NKGROUP. Engine bonnet liner from DYNAMAT helped too
A Ser of drawers helped as well in the rear
I think next I will put a second row of mini door seals on the doors ex Clark Rubber, say 10 mm * 10mm
I tried pinchweld from clark rubber - I got a bigger one though - it was too big! I ended up getting the later puma lower door seals which go on this week. I have heard good things about these.Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyG
FYI I used the larger pinch weld and a piece of ally plate and created a second rear door seal at the back. Its tight as a drum back there now. No rattles or anything, sealing up the light boxes and panel gaps means no dust getting sucked in the back now. My sliding windows still leak though.
Just got back from Bunnings a couple of hours ago with enough sikaflex to cover the whole car though - as soon as it stops raining here its going in.:cool:
Hi Andy.
Ive been considering the engine blanket on my 2012 110.
I was concerned re clearance and heat trapment in the Aussie environment.
Have you noticed any issues with it?
I also want to use their transmission tunnel blanket, mouldet mat.
I wonder if anyone stocks these items in Australia?
Best wishes.
Ken
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyG
There is already a cover on the engine that holds any heat, and does not get hot on top. I have a secondary temp gauge on the engine and did not notice any discernible increase in temps. It is a tight fit to the extent the blanket moulds around the bonnet, but certainly not crushed.
I was reluctant to do the second blanket you mentioned as the transmission has no alternate cooling path.
Not cheap and the freight is hexy, Noone Oz I am aware of. But stil worth it
It is worth it and I highly recommend it.
I insulated the 110 last summer and the result is amazing.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130...-defender.html
How about heat insulation?
I don't really mind the noise but the heat is very annoying
I got the heat from the transmission cooking my bottom and heat from the roof radiating my head and air con Colling my torso, making my perfectly medium rare
What would be the best way to reduce the heat from the roof?
Other than dynamat?
I am not sure I will want to add weight to the roof permanently
Thanks
Ive just done stage 1 sound deadener throughout, followed by 6mm insul layer on the roof and rear parcel shelf, plus header wrap the first 1/2 of the exhaust, and heat shield on the firewall and seatbox:
all products here:
Sound Deadener - Car Builders - Sound Deadener Heat Insulation Car heat Shields
Exmore trim premium carpet will go over the top.