Puma EGR valve

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Originally Posted by Dungie

Fatman, when you say trouble do you mean the removal of the gear? As I understand it if you remove the idler gear and leave the egr plugged in the system should not detect a fault.

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Exactly this trouble...as soon as i finished the job,i started the engine 3 times in a row,the 4th time check engine light lite,i didn't even drive it..put everything back again:mad: and re-unplugged it..

PS
In my case...
When egr unplugged,it definatly drives smoother,especially when going from light throttle to heavy(no jerkiness and kangaroing) BUT it "loses" some grunt somewere between 1500 and 1700 rpm??
PS2
where i gained much doing the air intake mod ==>> DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Air box mod and decat - now i am running an 102mm tube.

This must be in a different position on the 2.2, some similarities in the diagram but some big differences too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ozy013

The Egr valve is number 3, the plug your after is on the flat end.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...014/10/859.jpg

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by fatman

Exactly this trouble...as soon as i finished the job,i started the engine 3 times in a row,the 4th time check engine light lite,i didn't even drive it..put everything back again:mad: and re-unplugged it..

PS
In my case...
When egr unplugged,it definatly drives smoother,especially when going from light throttle to heavy(no jerkiness and kangaroing) BUT it "loses" some grunt somewere between 1500 and 1700 rpm??
PS2
where i gained much doing the air intake mod ==>> DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Air box mod and decat - now i am running an 102mm tube.

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That Defender2 thread is terrible,that bloke has made his Defender look like a back yard bodgy,no way would I do that. Pat

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Originally Posted by Damo89

This must be in a different position on the 2.2, some similarities in the diagram but some big differences too.

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Ooops, sorry Damo should've asked if it was the 2.2, mine's the 2.4.

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Originally Posted by Doc130

For the 2.4 egr can be blocked through remap( alive,bas), for the 2.2 nothing really available or proven yet.

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I recently had trouble with the EGR valve on my 2011 Puma (2.4 litre). Was quoted $600 to replace it. I disconnected the wiring as discussed in this thread - amazing difference - more responsive at low revs and more power. But of course the warning light remains on.

A remap sounds like the best way to permanently disable it. Is this expensive? What does "alive, bas" mean?

Dave G :)

Disconnecting the EGR on a modern highly tuned common rail engine can have consequences you may not be aware of. The fine balance of oxygen content in the cylinder is matched by fuel mapping to minimise Nox and at the same time maintain safe cylinder temps. At first, all might seem deceivingly ok, but critical changes in temperature can have long term effects on cylinder components. If you are playing with this you should at least be monitoring EGTs.

Now, if the EGR is disconnected and a matching new fuel map is installed, that is an entirely different story. The engine ECU operates as a normal non EGR diesel engine does (assuming it is done correctly).

One last point to note, a well set up factory EGR engine performs quite well with a huge reduction in Nox out the tailpipe. The main issue is nearly all of them have components that are not up to scratch from a reliability standpoint. This in turn causes incorrect EGR flows into the cylinder and corresponding fuelling issues. This is what translates into power and jerkiness problems.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by davidgate

I recently had trouble with the EGR valve on my 2011 Puma (2.4 litre). Was quoted $600 to replace it. I disconnected the wiring as discussed in this thread - amazing difference - more responsive at low revs and more power. But of course the warning light remains on.

A remap sounds like the best way to permanently disable it. Is this expensive? What does "alive, bas" mean?

Dave G :)

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Dave,

Alive Tuning and Bell Auto Services (BAS) are the foremost authorities on Defender tuning.

To remap a 2.4 you basically commit to the transaction and pay on either of their websites and will post you a contraption called an "Atric Device". You plug this into your OBDII port under the steering wheel and it reads your current "map". You connect the Atric via USB to your computer and e-mail the file to the UK where they work their magic and send you a tuned file or two (if you choose). The upload is just the reverse.

You just flash the original map back for services as the tuned map might upset the diagnostics, but timed at 5 minutes 12 seconds to go standard or tuned when ever it suits you.

https://secure.bellautoservices.co.u...puma-2-4-tdci/

Cheers,

Lou