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Thread: 110 V8 failing the emission test

  1. #11
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    Absolutely correct, I have closed the fuel needles in order to have an acceptable reading of the CO but as you said fuel starvation occurred to the extent that it was not possible to accelerate properly .

    The system I am thinking about will be used just for passing the MOT emission test.

    Quote Originally Posted by n plus one View Post
    Wouldn't have thought reducing fuel line feed would lean out your jetting? Would just expect it to create fuel starvation/stuttering at high throttle settings?

  2. #12
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    What would happen if you shut off fuel to one carb for the MoT?

    Would run very lean.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  3. #13
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    Lota-A-Landy, the engine will be running on 4 pistons in a shaky manner that will intrigue the MOT personnel.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by lebanon View Post
    Bee Utey, this is the most interesting and easy to fit option.

    correct me if I am wrong but electric solenoid valves operates either on or off. For such an application I need to be able to stage regulate the quantity of air in the inlet manifold to reach an acceptable mixture that keeps the car idling with and give the low CO reading.
    Yes a solenoid is either on or off but you can add a small needle valve inline as well for the fine adjustment, even a fish tank bubbles adjuster valve might do. Suitable vacuum solenoids are used on older emissions control systems so shouldn't be hard to salvage off something. Some early EFI RRCs used them to speed up the idle with the a/c clutch. Getting the air evenly to both carburettors may involve drilling a small fitting into each carby spacer and using a tee piece between them. If you got creative you could get a 40 - 50C thermostatic switch to operate the solenoid so that the vehicle was legal whenever it was warm.

    Random pics of parts off google:





  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by lebanon View Post
    Lota-A-Landy, the engine will be running on 4 pistons in a shaky manner that will intrigue the MOT personnel.
    Are you absolutely sure that the air chambers to each bank within the manifold are not connected?

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  6. #16
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    a 100% sure, I learned it the hard way with a leaking chock system seal that fouled 2 spark plugs on each bank.

    one carb feeds piston 1,4,6 and 7 and the second carb the remaining.

    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    Are you absolutely sure that the air chambers to each bank within the manifold are not connected?

  7. #17
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    Water/metho injection will lower emissions if you can get it right
    By all means get a Defender. If you get a good one, you'll be happy. If you get a bad one, you'll become a philosopher.
    apologies to Socrates

    Clancy MY15 110 Defender

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  8. #18
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    You could put lean needles in the SU's when going for the test or adjust the needles lower into the jets. Also retarding the ignition will help. The air pump system was a cheap Solution back in Leyland's day & pumped fresh air onto the back of the exhaust valve & burnt the unburnt fuel in the exhaust system. A lot of the Jap manufactures used this system. I remember on the Mini's people would take the belt off to discount it but the exhaust gases would get into the pump & seize it & when they wanted to sell the vehicle they would have to get a new air pump & other parts.

  9. #19
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    I found this valve at the A/C hardware supplier.



    The technician assured me that it will answer my need for regulating an airflow.

    The next step is t fabricate thick carb spacer from teflon polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) resin. to be able to install small fittings as you suggested, those will be blanked and the valve taken out once the MOT is passed.

    Quote Originally Posted by bee utey View Post
    Yes a solenoid is either on or off but you can add a small needle valve inline as well for the fine adjustment, even a fish tank bubbles adjuster valve might do. Suitable vacuum solenoids are used on older emissions control systems so shouldn't be hard to salvage off something. Some early EFI RRCs used them to speed up the idle with the a/c clutch. Getting the air evenly to both carburettors may involve drilling a small fitting into each carby spacer and using a tee piece between them. If you got creative you could get a 40 - 50C thermostatic switch to operate the solenoid so that the vehicle was legal whenever it was warm.

    Random pics of parts off google:





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