Thread: Steering wheel removal question

This is a long shot but following the same principles of large race assembly we used to heat and cool the parts. In the case of the steering wheel the aluminium alloy has a higher coeficient of expansion than the steel steering shaft there for the aluminium will expand more per degree of heat than the steel
After applying wd 40 or the like for a few days put the joint under pressure with a puller then heat the steering wheel with a electric heat gun, you could also direct a jet of that stuff the skin specialist uses to freeze off cancers to the shaft end then without delay apply a few blows with a mallet.
Failing this I am at a loss except sacrificing the steering wheel.
Good Luck Obi

Originally Posted by gazby

Try backing off the steering wheel hub securing nut to about 3mm clear of the hub face, sit in the drivers seat and pull back on alternate sides, say at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock position on the steering wheel rim in a see-saw action. You may need to pull really hard but this should break the taper. When it's loose fully remove the nut and washer, (leaving the nut on whilst you are working the wheel stops you getting a face full of steering wheel when the taper lets go)
Don't forget to reference mark the steering wheel position in regard to the steering shaft spline so when you are re-fitting it you get it in the right position. Gaz

Yeah, thanks Gaz.

Done all of that a number of times and still no cigar.

Eventually it must give ............ I hope.

Re the Thornycroft remark, I leave the nut on for that reason Martyn

Perry