MT82 Adapter Shaft

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Originally Posted by Landant

New to the forum and have just returned to a Defender after a 300tdi 10 years ago and it rewarded me by loosing all drive 3 weeks in, it is a Puma 130. This is actually my 7th Land Rover (still own two others) and I've never had one not get me home before.

So, from what I have read there is a strong chance that it is the adapter shaft between the MT82 gearbox and the LT230 transfer box. The car is with a mechanic who to be fair is trying to find the cause without pulling the car to bits and I've mentioned this issue to him and he can't find worn splines.

Would I be correct in saying that the splines wear at the gearbox end of the shaft, or is it the coupling the shaft slides into, or a combination of both? Does the transfer box and adapter assembly all need to come out to find that?

I've found my ex army series 3 is satisfying my need for dirt, grease and grazed knuckles so happy for a professional to work on something I will rely on!

Thanks

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Check to see if it drive`s with cdl engaged as it could be as simple as a drive flange or axle spline;)

Thanks. It is the adaptor shaft, he was looking at the wrong end, didn't realise that the shaft he saw at the transfer box was not something that ran straight from the gear box. Have ordered Ashcroft fix for the issue and some drive flanges just to complete work on things with splines...

Antony

Got my puma booked into Les Richmond in 2 weeks time to install the ashcroft adapter shaft. One less thing to worry about when I'm out.

HHHhas a

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Originally Posted by bushmech

Is this the part that Land Rover failed to install ? A $16 CV boot could eliminate the adapter shaft failure !! I described my grease-nipple addition, only to find a oil leak thru the yoke. This is what I understand Ashcroft has done to lube shaft (did not put any silastic sealer under bolt into g/box) So over Easter the trans case came out again (how I love my Deefer) noticed how much of the grease was been spun out from the shaft. A cv boot from Repco, 25mm x82mm was as close as we could find 80mm would be perfect. Slid boot over end of shaft filled with grease, bashed it in till in place, clamped end of boot with silastic under lip, another shot of grease to nipple.I believe that the grease can now be contained in the boot with no chance of water or dust to get in. Put the lot back together. (see image) Comments please

Tony

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Putting a question out there.....
With the passage of time, is there any evidence that just using grease containing in the boot and periodic greasing via a grease gun provides adequate lubrication to all of the splines? I am changing my shaft now and thinking that how does the grease lubricate all of the spines, not just the ones directly where the nipple is mounted, as there are no passages for the grease to go through to all of the splines? Molly grease is not fluid enough to move.

With that thought, using the CV boot option, how would 80/90 gear oil that is contained in the CV boot, sure centrifugal force would make the oil collect in the boot, but when the shaft is stationary, the oil is free to flow back in the splines? The only other way I can see all of the splines being lubricated with grease is to machine a groove on the inside where the grease nipples come through, that way the grease fills up the groove then out of the splines.

Hi ozrob,I did my mod at 40k, at 115k decided to replace centre diff with Ashcroft as there was too much copper pieces in drain oil ( all the shims had let go). The cv boot had disintegrated due I suspect to exceeding 140kph! However ,there was no evidence of any wear on the shaft . Always gave it a shot of moly grease every 10k service. I had tapped 2 nipples 180 deg apart( to keep balance) close to the end of the yoke that bolts to gearbox. That way the grease applied from any of the 2 nipples goes into the void between the yoke and the shaft and thru spinning, out along the spline. I did not replace cv boot as the greasing seems to do the trick,applied thru whole in the base of the adaptor housing.

Ashcroft MT82 kit.
The version 3 (red alloy cover) of the Ashcroft kit now doesnt use a modified genuine coupling.
The coupling that I assume they get made (or make) is about twice the hardness of the genuine coupling on the Rockwell scale.
The splines are also a far tighter fit when compared to the genuine and the orings for sealing are larger and a tighter fit.

I think they have gone down the right path with this latest kit.
Keep in mind I'm not Ashcroft Transmissions nor do I have any more knowledge than installing their kits.

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Originally Posted by bushmech

Hi ozrob,I did my mod at 40k, at 115k decided to replace centre diff with Ashcroft as there was too much copper pieces in drain oil ( all the shims had let go). The cv boot had disintegrated due I suspect to exceeding 140kph! However ,there was no evidence of any wear on the shaft . Always gave it a shot of moly grease every 10k service. I had tapped 2 nipples 180 deg apart( to keep balance) close to the end of the yoke that bolts to gearbox. That way the grease applied from any of the 2 nipples goes into the void between the yoke and the shaft and thru spinning, out along the spline. I did not replace cv boot as the greasing seems to do the trick,applied thru whole in the base of the adaptor housing.

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Thanks for your reply bushmech, detailing that the grease goes into the void first then out through the splines makes lots of sense, I suppose any excess grease just gets flung out past the OEM type seal into the housing which should be not issues. Do you have any measurements as to where the hole is required to be drilled to allow the grease gun onto the nipples?

Hi all
My adapter shaft kit has arrived in the post from Britpart, it has occurred to me that no one has actually posted dimensions and locations of where the grease nipples are required to be installed and the hole in the gear box to transfer case housing, so I decided to take some photos with dimensions as to what is required. I tested the drilling location with the old shaft first. The smaller hole in the housing was for when I used a camera to inspect the shaft with the transfer case still in the vehicle, both holes will be sealed with silastic, and being silastic it can easily be removed during a required service. Two grease nipples were installed 180 degrees apart for balancing. When the shaft is fitted to the gearbox and transfer box, the only place for the grease to go is along the splines, I plan to use Molly grease as it is better suited for sliding splines than wheel bearing grease.
Attachment 154861 Attachment 154862 Attachment 154863
I hope this helps to visualize what is required?

So another dry shaft in our MY13 90 for the stats. Not as stripped as I expected, despite all the red dust and clunks, but doing it anyway for the first time at 105k since I have it out for the clutch.

Question though, not sure how to remove the bolt, workshop manual says special tool required but what have others used? Interweb says people make their own tool or use impact gun with it in 6th or reverse which sounds dodge.