Where is the Starter motor/Solenoid?

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Originally Posted by Pocket Rocket

So far we've used the traxide kit to do the headlight relays and also have the kit (from traxide) to do the spotties.

As for the driving lights, the biggest issue was trying to work out the anatomy of the Defender. We knew what needed to be done and why but just couldn't for the life of us find the 'where'.

Once we've got the whole lot done and checked we'll put an update on our thread in the members ride section.



Thanks for the heads up, didn't know the CD's went up to the current model - thought they were only for the older ones. Will pay a visit to Dave's shop and also a visit to a sparky to make sure it's all okay.

Not being professional mechanics we do like to get our work checked by a pro. Actually have done for a couple of decades now ever since bleeding brakes on LoneRangers 1958 Wolseley 1500. The RAC checked that one over and were impressed by the workmanship given the difficulty of the job and that we were only teenagers at the time. But definitely better to be safe than sorry.

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Unfortunately very rarely now is the spanner spinning you can hit ? with a hammer class hardware the difficult bit(other than the headscratching "whichue chineese octopus did they use to bolt that bit in there" factor) it's a lot more to do with the electronics and the magical electrons that you can't see that to let out. And the newer vehicles these days are so frugal with the electrons they don't even have the decency to let the smoke out and char the wires so ou can tell by sight which bit you broke.

I'm not sure if the fords manual is called a rave cd but it should be in the same area of the shop.

Thanks for your advice. And yes I will get it all checked.

Just for some background, the reason I am doing all of this work myself is my experiences with our Dmax where I paid for everything to be fitted.

The canopy resulted in a trip to the panel beater for the back end to be resprayed when the canopy came loose on a gravel road and caused about $3,000 worth of damage.

The so-called tow bar fitting professional wired in the towbar electrics that caused a short which resulted in a visit to another professional to fix.

When I had my Anderson plug rewired from the battery to the auxiliary battery they cut the terminals on the battery and left them with live wires exposed.

When the bushes went on the upgraded suspension (product defect) they replaced the back ones and not the front ones even though they knew they were all faulty.

When the upgraded suspension was fitted there was a bracket for the brake line to be bolted to. It didn't fit so they left the brake line rubbing against the bracket instead of cutting the bracket off.

When the bullbar was fitted and the front end cut to allow the fitting they left a flap hanging down which rubbed against the tyre when turning.

A certain well known suspension shop here in WA fitted suspension to our Fairlane and fitted a part upside down because they didn't notice the bend. The same shop seemd to break something on my car whenever they did any work on any of them. After the third time we decided it wasn't a coincidence and never went back.

Also we paid $10,000 to have driveway gates fitted before we got our Defenders. One bracket broke which was replaced. They refused to fix the other bracket and when that one broke it resulted in my 6 week old Defender needing a trip to the panel beaters.

Hence, I am doing all this work myself as I don't have a lot of faith in tradesman.

Thanks Pocket Rocket for your reply , Trackside is something I will consider . I have a 110 county , and a 110 td5 . I wired up my driving lights on these going through relays , taking my time and making sure all wires were clipped tied and installed to a high stranded . I have a new 110 on order , but the Puma is a new toy to me , so not sure how much room there is in engine bay , or how to get through the fire wall , This doesn't bother me I will work It out . If I can't I'll have to get my son to give me a hand . I'm luck because he is a Land Rover trained Mechanic , In saying that getting him to do anything for me is like trying to win the Lottery . lol. No he's not that bad really . I do enjoy reading members questions , and all the help that is shared by members , collectively there is so much knowledge !!.. Jim

These links might help too,

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130...high-beam.html

In the link above Judo has a very good easy to understand simple wiring diagram in post no: 12.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130...ht-wiring.html

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130...ne-switch.html

Regards,
Mike.

I know the feeling and pain loneranger. Theres a reason I spend a lot of time giving advice for free on this forum and why I charge next to diddly for the work that I do when I do it for people from the forum.

If you had an old school Landy I'd have been amongst the first giving you tellingly exact instructions on how to do what you were trying to do. Hell I'd probably be throwing down a better way to do it that you were wanting to while admonishing you for being shy on the tools.

Not a luxury you can take with pretty much any post 1999 Landy unfortunately.

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

I know the feeling and pain loneranger. Theres a reason I spend a lot of time giving advice for free on this forum and why I charge next to diddly for the work that I do when I do it for people from the forum.

If you had an old school Landy I'd have been amongst the first giving you tellingly exact instructions on how to do what you were trying to do. Hell I'd probably be throwing down a better way to do it that you were wanting to while admonishing you for being shy on the tools.

Not a luxury you can take with pretty much any post 1999 Landy unfortunately.

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Cheers. All good got the relays wired in today and all the cabling run. There's not a lot of room behind those headlights but I managed to fit in 3 New Era 6 post relays and the associated wiring behind the passenger side headlight. Tomorrow hopefully will connect up the spotties, lightbar and uhf then I can start on the rear worklight.

Once this is all done I might tidy up the battery box now I've got some spare cable.

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Originally Posted by jimr1

I've enjoyed this post , because I'll have this job to do soon , and like looking how others go about It , how they wire up there driving lights . The ones I currently have are wired from next to the battery , If there is an easier way I'll be in on that , so please let us know which way you go , and how they came out !!.. Jim

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So we got a professional opinion on the jobs we did and apart from a bit of tidying up there was one change in regards to the way the driving lights were wired.

Instead of running to the alternator we've run it to an ignition wire in the dash plugged in through the cigarette lighter. The reason for this was that the driving lights were staying on until the traxide isolator isolated the starting battery which was taking anything up to 15 minutes depending on the length of the drive.

Hope this helps