Technical and Running In Advice

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Originally Posted by AndyG

Well, I got mine in Sept, and 3 weeks later and 5,000 km via Birdsville, Marree, Lake Eyre, Innaminka I gave it a service at an independent. Change oil & filter and went over the dangly bits with a torque wrench, 0 issues.
I made a point of varying the engine load in the first 1000 km and gave it a fang up the Toowomba Ranges. 2400 is my normal change point and beyond 3000 no point.
Simmo makes a good point re the driveline and I will have the oils changed at the next service.
Given the recommended service for arduous use is 10,000 I will be doing that. As mine is a toy not a commute, and hopefully will spend its time on the dirt.
BTW you will find the service schedule in the files up top.
And we'll done on doing the wheel.
How did your ebay sale go?

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The eBay sale went better than expected sold everything at what I though was a good price for me :)

I bought my MY13 Defender 110 on the 19th December 2013, I drove it out of the dealership in Albury and drove it at highway speeds for five hours on the way home, I also commute 160km per day to work.
Nil issues with the engine...drove it like I stole it....I now have 64000km on the clock.
Do the regular servicing at the recommended intervals and you will be fine as oils have advanced a lot in the past 20 years as the 2.2 takes a high quality engine oil.
The Aust version does not have a DFP filter...but they have a catalytic converter.

Here is a link to the strategy I decided to follow... written more than a year and a half ago.

Now with 32,000k on the clock no issues.


edit: maybe this post written a year later than the above is better info....

I would change the oils as per Land Rovers servicing,early changes are wasting good oil,don't drive like miss Daisy,let it idle for 30 secs first thing in the morning and take it easy for a K or two and then drive it like normal,short change first to second,second to third and then take it up to 60 and into fourth.Once it's warm you can skip gears,first to third and then fourth,or 1st,3rd,5th taking it to 2400 rpm before changing,don't run it in,potter along or any of that crap,drive it. Pat

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Originally Posted by tact

Here is a link to the strategy I decided to follow... written more than a year and a half ago.

Now with 32,000k on the clock no issues.


edit: maybe this post written a year later than the above is better info....

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That's a great report, and I'm particularly interested in the explanation of throttle use at different stages.

What's the theory for this (in laymans terms)? I'm getting my new 110 very soon, so am keen to understand these little techniques.

Cheers.

I didn't have any particular approach to running either of ours in. I drove according to how they responded better. What I noticed was higher revs when changing gears resulted in less backlash and in general slightly higher revs in normal driving gave a better, smoother drive.

I had mine bouncing off the speed limiter within a hour of buying it,same with my Tdi and that old girl ticked over 473,000k's yesterday. Pat

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Originally Posted by Wheatos

That's a great report, and I'm particularly interested in the explanation of throttle use at different stages.

What's the theory for this (in laymans terms)? I'm getting my new 110 very soon, so am keen to understand these little techniques.

Cheers.

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I gleaned most of the "modified drive-it-like-you-stole-it" plan from a few other sites. Maybe Google "running in modern small turbo diesels". I can't remember the sites to give proper attribution.

The thinking seems to be that modern turbo diesels need to be driven such that they are on boost pretty often so as to properly seat and seal piston rings. I.e. Make them "work" from scratch.

"Work it" reportedly doesn't mean revving the crap out of it. Nor does it apparently mean foot to the floor in tall gears with lowish revs...(labouring/lugging the engine)

Some sites (and some people here) advocate thrashing from day 1. But even they will say you must properly warm up the engine first and at least don't lug the engine (boot down hard, too low revs, too high a gear)

I am not an expert. I just read up on the various variations of "drive it like you stole it" and settled on something like that... Short of thrashing, and no long durations at a constant speed in the early stages.

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Originally Posted by LouisW

I was told that DPF are fitted to new defenders not catalytic converters. Either way can you explain the difference to me ?

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A Cat converts converters combined carbon monoxide (CO) with unburned hydrocarbons (HC) to produce carbon dioxide (CO2) and water (H2O) that also reduce oxides of nitrogen (NOx).

A Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) doe what is says on the tin! Unburnt diesel (like we see coming out of many truck exhuasts) contains many small particles. The DPF captures these and as it gets hotter, literally then burns them off. If you don't drive your car for long enough, the filter can get clogged.

I have no idea why OZ environmental legislation does not require the same compliance with emissions as is in Europe now. DPF 's and Cats are fitted to all diesel cars... no soot out the back of diesel trucks or cars here, almost no diesel smell either! Considering the engines are designed to run with these in place, its pretty nuts they take the DPF off for the OZ market! :confused:

(Euro laws also specify 'ultra low sulphur diesel' which is higher up the refining tree, hence more expensive. I am guessing because we don't have that in OZ, a DPF could become clogged pretty quickly?)

Hope that helps!

Pete :)