Rust proofing

Electronic rust proofing has been covered here before and has been proven many times that it doesn't work. It's a great idea in other applications but is sadly lacking in automotive use. The way these are set up, the only way it will be effective is if your vehicle was underwater. Not really a good option!

As an aside, my mechanic showed me a late model Land Cruiser they had in the workshop with the system fitted. What was interesting was that it had done a bit of beach work and had rust in quite a few places. Much of it was within 3 to 4cm of the anodes.

The law will eventually catch up with the sellers in Australia and it will be shown as not fit for purpose. My advice would be to put your money towards something more beneficial. Oh, and enjoy your new addition to the family! :D

Well where to go for spray on rustproofing in Perth seems to be sorted.

Any other suggestions on preventing wear or damage to a new car would be good.
Eg is rear panel damage common and rear corner protectors recommended, exterior stainless bolt replacement kits useful etc etc

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Put it this way.. To fit the "pads" they will drill holes in the vehicle.. Introducing more points for rust to interact..

I've seen a vehicle (mums first RAV4 ) which was fitted with one. We removed it and found rust behind the pads!

You could say the same for any attachment/accessory that requiring drilling then - snorkel, wings top protectors, wing top and side vents, the list is useless. If done correctly in treating/painting any exposed metal it shouldn't be an issue

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Can anyone provide an approximate cost of the Beams Rustproofing if they've had it done recently?

I used them last year. Rust proofing and also rhino liner in the rear wheel arches. Made a big difference to the stone noise and if I did it again I think I would use more rhino liner under the rear cargo area.

I will double check but I think I paid around $600.

I would use them again.

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Originally Posted by protonpills

You could say the same for any attachment/accessory that requiring drilling then - snorkel, wings top protectors, wing top and side vents, the list is useless. If done correctly in treating/painting any exposed metal it shouldn't be an issue

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Except.... You're fitting accessories for a purpose...

Punching holes in the vehicle for absolutely no reason other than sticking a pad (behind which moisture builds up) which does absolutely nothing to protect the vehicle - that's just plain silly!!!

Paying that amount of money on something that absolutely doesn't work - when you could be putting it towards say - a steering protector, diff guard etc.. Or even a trip away... That's pure madness.

So just to clear up any confusion which 'pad' are you referring too?

If you mean checkerplate on rear corners then yes I agree I don't think they offer that much protection except from scratches perhaps. Is that what you were referring too?

I was thinking rear corner protection that you see attached to rear bumper steps that sits out from the rear corner panel.



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The "capacitive coupler" pads... That claim to induce the excess electrons into the metal..

As for the lower check plate - it adds a level of stiffness to the thin alloy making minor bumps less likely to do damage..

The lower plate along the door sills prevents scuffs from people..

Rear corner bolt on bumperettes do a good job and act as a handy step if you have a rack, or bogged and want to get into the back door..

I did think about checkerplate along door sills wondering how scuffed they get with people getting in and out of the car.

Rear corner protection I was thinking of is the type in the photos. More to protect against tree stumps, rocks, bushes when finding yourself doing 3 point turns in narrow trails etc, or the occasional idiot parker.


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