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You'd think... maybe if you buy it privately, but at the auctions a certain wrecker pays top dollar to get his hands on 'every one'.Quote:
Originally Posted by loanrangie
I've been outbid quite a few times...
Just the other day a Td5 manual D2a with 330kkm went for 3400 before fees (4k+ after fees). I knew the motor was stuffed, the person that bought it (1500km away) did not...
I have done the conversion to a 130 DC using a low k D2 as the donor.
It is a physical/mechanical straight forward conversion, however, there are a number of brackets and mods that need to be accommodated changing the 300tdi to the TD5.
Engine mounts, radiator mounts, fuel tank mounts.
The auto just bolts straight up (if the TD5 was from an auto) otherwise flex plate etc.
Your biggest hurdle is the electrics.
Note how I made that sentence stand alone:cool:
I fitted the entire D2 loom into my defender which required a number of splices, custom brackets and mounting cradles for ECU's. Extra holes and grommets for looms to run. Grafting the D2 binnacle into the Defender spot and a good understanding of the D2 electrics.:D
I did this because
> I had the complete D2 and the alternative Compushift at the time, was cost prohibitive considering I had all the gear in the D2.
> I have the option of legal/ compliant Self Levelling Suspension for the rear using custom air bags, without purchasing a stand alone system.
>Cruise Control without mods, full pwr window options and an overall superior wiring setup in comparison to the original Defender.[bigsmile]
> All the great features of D2 Auto control in Low and Hi range, like TC lockup on overrun in Low range etc.
>Various engine maps are available for the D2 auto.:burnrubber:
The alternative is the Ashcroft Compushift, however you will still require a TD5 Defender wiring loom.
Physically you will need a new rad, intercooler, fuel tank, fuel lines and pump (pump could come from a donor D2) airbox, intake hoses, intercooler hoses, all cooling hoses and header tank. Accelerator pedal(potentiometer) or modify the D2 unit if using the D2 wiring.
More fun....the D2 uses wheel speed sensors for speed, cruise ctrl and ABS.
You will need to consider how you are going have speed input signals to the ECU's (there a number of inputs which must be considered) as the 95 Defender doesn't have these.
This can be overcome using D1 ABS front swivels and later model Defender rear ABS components. You cannot use the electronic speedo output from a D1 or late Defender.
Now the easiest auto conversion to a Defender of that vintage is to simply fit a mechanical (D1) ZF auto and fit a kickdown cable.
But the electronic auto is the business for a very sweet setup.:twisted:
If you are still keen after reading this give me a PM and a phone number.
I'm more than happy to tell you everything I can.
Mmm, decisions.
i just really want to have an auto.
i do love the 300tdi and there are some great kits you can get to extract a bit more power from them and maintain there awesome fuel economy.
Seen on the Davis Brown site a turbo and pump upgrade.
https://davisperformance.com.au/dyno...ance-pack.html
and a 2.8lt stroker kit.
https://davisperformance.com.au/perf...roker-kit.html
combined would make it pretty pokey motor while maintaining sub 10l per 100km.
there are a few people putting cummins motors in there defenders and getting good results. but that would be a headache and high expense.
maybe in the future for a long term project.
6.6L Duramax and Alison auto :cool:
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Yeah Nah, not gonna happen, don't have $45,000 + to spare and the rest of the headache that goes with itQuote:
Originally Posted by Disco Muppet
Td5 auto swap ain't exactly a cheap or simple exercise either ;)
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