Defender Headlight Switch

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Originally Posted by PAT303

We do read everything properly and no you haven't fixed anything,you still have the main current going through the light switch and the blinker assembly,the blinker assembly contacts will still melt leaving you with no headlights. Pat

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Originally Posted by Dervish

...Though you should install headlight relays, whether by using the Traxide kit or my tutorial here...

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Hmm..

and somethings on a Defender never changes.....

Fitting a rely for the head light switch is something Ive been doing for 20 odd years and doesnt require anything clever to be purchased.

The first time I did this mod was on a 1978 Series 3 and have done it since.
As already mentioned mostly when upgraded globes are fitted is what causes the issue (apart from the fact no relay is a stupid idea).

Regards
Daz

P.S oh I still like that nice modern look switch the OP did, and rather than shoot someones idea down in flames, add to the positive idea they have.... "great switch, but you should add a relay to it"

I bought a headlight relay kit a long time ago. Before I got around to installing it (and still haven't - just raided kit for bits) switch burnt out - as they all seem to. Quick fix that I find satisfactory was to install a heavy two way toggle switch on right side of steering column. Easy fit as plastic covers have been left off. Original headlight switch still works parkers and instrument lights as normal. Substitute one just switches headlights on low or high beam independent of original switch. Also bypassed the standard dipswitch and the relay down by the fuse panel which the headlight switch current goes through. Idea of this obviously to prevent accidental fast flattening of battery by forgetting to turn off headlights when stopping motor. Despite having been caught out doing this, I prefer being able to have headlights on without taillights and /or without motor running. Especially for stationary lighting eg in a paddock.


One apparent advantage of these simple modifications is having slightly brighter headlights with standard globes due to less voltage drop. The headlight current only goes through one switch. With the standard setup, it goes through three switches, which would each cause small voltage drop. ie The headlight switch, the dipswitch and the relay controlled by the ignition switch. Also bypassing maybe three feet of extra wire down to and back from this relay would if anything further help reduce voltage drop. However, note that the standard wiring system should not have many problems with a relay kit installed as only the small current necessary to actuate the relays then goes through it. The only "switch" the main current goes through is the relay and then through a shorter distance of heavier wires than the standard ones.

As said the switch may help, but you are more just treating the symptoms and not finding a cure. The most important thing to do is add a relay as they dont have them standard. They will melt with normal globes and by just changing the switch it will just move to the next weak point. I replaced mine with a Traxide kit some 10 years ago and have not had any dramas since. It is also cheaper to buy the RRC switch and just cut and replace the connectors.

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Originally Posted by CraigE

As said the switch may help, but you are more just treating the symptoms and not finding a cure. The most important thing to do is add a relay as they dont have them standard. They will melt with normal globes and by just changing the switch it will just move to the next weak point. I replaced mine with a Traxide kit some 10 years ago and have not had any dramas since. It is also cheaper to buy the RRC switch and just cut and replace the connectors.

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And if you fit relays close to the headlights, you cut out a couple of metres of wire which will give a bigger voltage drop than the headlight switch contacts. And even better if you source the power for the relay from the alternator, where the voltage will always be slightly higher than at the battery when the engine is running.

John

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Originally Posted by BadCo.

Did you read everything?

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Yes

Digressing slightly from the original post but does the lower current draw from fitting led globes or full led headlights negate the need for a relay setup?

Paul.

Good points made by all - I should've emphasised the relays more - but I wrote the thread in response to a guy who's switch had just broken, so getting him going again was my focus when I was typing. Better him spending the money on a decent switch than just giving money away for another crap LR unit.

The reason I started another thread rather than respond to that one is because it will be found via the search function by anyone who searches for "Defender headlight switch" - these are the people whose switches have just failed. My response to them is buy one of these rather than an LR switch; it's better in every metric I am aware of and cheaper to boot. I wasn't touting this as a solution to the headlight circuit by any means, just a broken headlight switch. I have posted on the need for relays here and elsewhere and yes, I even linked to my post on the subject.

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Originally Posted by harro

Digressing slightly from the original post but does the lower current draw from fitting led globes or full led headlights negate the need for a relay setup?

Paul.

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I could say a lot on that subject but I'll keep it simple: No, the circuitry driving the LEDs should (depending on it's quality, sophistication and the designer's anticipation of the light operating in anything as low as a ~10V environment) be able to compensate for low voltage, so the lights won't be dull, but it is still no good having even the diminished current of LEDs running through the mess of wires and switches that make up the headlight circuit.