Thread: Defenders for newbies

Originally Posted by Viclandychick

How deep can the Defender go, realistically, into a river to make a crossing? Is a snorkel the only thing I need to help with a river crossing?

Hi VLC. There is a lot to learn about safe water crossings. Depth is only one factor. The big mistake many make is not checking the flow rate or the terrain under water first. Many have been swept off crossings that weren't that deep.

Then there is correct gearing, correct steady speed, creating a bow wave, extended diff and gearbox breathers, letting your diffs cool first, holding your nerve and not stopping. A snorkel is insurance at best because no air intake is 100% sealed if you really get stuck under water.

Originally Posted by Viclandychick

How deep can the Defender go, realistically, into a river to make a crossing? Is a snorkel the only thing I need to help with a river crossing?

Have a look at Nugget stuff and the air box kit. A snorkel and the plumbing is not water tight.

If your planning detours into sand, maybe some Maxtrax
A fuse box for all the accessories
UHF radio

Noone has suggested mechanical mods like a lift, shows you how good it is out of the box

Originally Posted by Viclandychick

How deep can the Defender go, realistically, into a river to make a crossing? Is a snorkel the only thing I need to help with a river crossing?

VLC - "realistically" better don't exceed the LR spec 500mm. Do that and you don't need even a snorkel, nor extended breathers on diffs and gearboxes

Even at 500mm there are a lot of perils and process to follow to be safe. (Eg Walking the route looking for snags and deep holes so no surprises, letting diffs cool as needed before diving in, proper checks and maintenance after)

"Unrealistically" - if you control a whole lot of variables you "can" go deeper. I have personally done about 1 metre static depth WITHOUT a snorkel. There is a thread and video if you search my posts. With a very small bow wave, moving smoothly and slowly forward - water was over my headlights and half way up the stock air intake on the driver side fender

BUT remember this was nothing like a river crossing. The base was smooth flat concrete, no rocks bumps or holes, quite short. Water entered the cabin, about 2" on the floor front and back in just the 2 minutes of the video. Had I been forced to stop, even for a few minutes more - likely huge damage would result.

Its been pretty well answered with regards to water crossings....

The breathers for diffs, transfer on a Defender TDCi (Puma) are already way up in the engine bay (as is a TD5), on the passenger side towards the back of the engine. The gearbox breather vents into the bellhousing.

Most of my clients that I am fitting up their new Defender for expedition, traveling use arent looking to do hard core offroading..... but if their is a mountain to climb or a river to cross because they want to get to a particular spot, then they willl do it.

I extent the gearbox breather and take the other breathers that little bit higher and fit them under the back of the bonnet (so just under the power bulge). I do moderate to complete water proofing to the computer which is already in a good spot high in the engine bay behind the engine. Fit a snorkel correctly so its sealed. When fitting a long range tank take the tank breather right upto behind the filler cap. Regular use of a good quality silicone spray (one that is safe for use on plastic and rubber) will also aid long term water proofing. Sealant and water proofing for the electrics under seat (basically relays etc)

I do the same thing for the TD5 it just needs a bit more work to achieve the same results.

I reckon if one got super serious you could get it to "Camel Trophy" type water crossings (if you arent old enough to get that, google it)

Regards
Daz

Originally Posted by Olsey

Thanks for all the info guys! As a recently new Defender owner, this information is valuable.

One thing, I just called the dealer (Austral in Brissy) where I purchased my D90 (MY15) to find out the EKA & radio codes and the service person said that this model doesn't have these codes and that was also confirmed by the service manager. I'm assuming what they told me is BS. Is that the case?

Well, I received my EKA code this morning. This is thanks to the customer service team at JLR Australia.

The customer service person also mentioned they have had a word to Austral Land Rover in regards to this. Nice of them to do this but I doubt it will change Austral's attitude!

If anyone is after their defender's EKA code, try your dealer first, then JLR Australia's customer service team if the dealer doesn't want to help you out.

Good to know - cheers

Originally Posted by Olsey

Well, I received my EKA code this morning. This is thanks to the customer service team at JLR Australia.

The customer service person also mentioned they have had a word to Austral Land Rover in regards to this. Nice of them to do this but I doubt it will change Austral's attitude!

If anyone is after their defender's EKA code, try your dealer first, then JLR Australia's customer service team if the dealer doesn't want to help you out.

Originally Posted by AndyG

Wrapping the exhaust under the front was the cheapest and best mod

Heat wrapping? IF so, what were the benefits?

An immediate reduction in cabin, handbrake and gear box temps, I have a Temp monitor on the gear box, and from memory 10c reduction there, handbrake was warm not hot